I'm having trouble getting my engine to run smoothly so I decided to start from first principles.
I set the static timing (as per the manual) to 11 degrees btdc but when I fired it up it was running like a dog so I used my timing light and got it running reasonably well at 14 btdc at 800 rpm.
Wondering what I did wrong I decide to connect the voltmeter again and turn the engine until the volts dropped off.
The timing showed 1 btdc. I fired it back up again and it ran OK.
I must be doing something wrong but what? this is such a straight forward job.
I think that I may have a possible answer. I'm reasonably sure that I did the static timing correctly so it may be that the advance is wrong. I will check to see if the weights are flapping about.
You should be disconnecting the vacuum advance when you're doing the dynamic timing. The book figure is a good starting point but in reality it does need a bit more advance. Are the carb mounts sagging? I had this problem but the airbox can be supported at the bracket to keep everything steady. Also make sure your throttle springs are in decent condition. One of mine had stretched but fortunately, I had a spare one.
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver) 2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car) 1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
On an 1850 you need to set the static timing after making sure the advance weights are fully retracted.
The springs go weak with old age and dont pull them back. A drop of oil on each pin and a smear of grease on the
round bits helps a lot. New springs are available from Robsport.
The static technique...position crank at 11 BTDC on the marks. Set up meter on coil minus. Rotate dizzie until
the needle kicks if its electronic now...point of kick is the firing point.
On points it obviously goes open circuit when the points open and short when closed so on coil minus it will go from low (effectively zero) volts to battery if that's where you are looking...
If your low volts reading with points closed is high you need new (or clean) points.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
On points it obviously goes open circuit when the points open and short when closed so on coil minus it will go from low (effectively zero) volts to battery if that's where you are looking...
I connected the meter between the battery positive terminal and the wire from the dizzy so it's the other way round.
New springs are available from Robsport.
This is interesting, I bought new springs from Robsport some time ago. I have managed to get hold of some original ones, they are much more substantial than the Robsport ones (see below). It says on the Robsport site that you need 2. I wonder if they mean 2 per weight.
... Still Sprintless.