The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I'm having trouble getting my engine to run smoothly so I decided to start from first principles.

I set the static timing (as per the manual) to 11 degrees btdc but when I fired it up it was running like a dog so I used my timing light and got it running reasonably well at 14 btdc at 800 rpm.

Wondering what I did wrong I decide to connect the voltmeter again and turn the engine until the volts dropped off.

The timing showed 1 btdc. I fired it back up again and it ran OK.

I must be doing something wrong but what? this is such a straight forward job.

An 1850?
On points?

If yes, I reckon 14 degrees at 800 is good.

As for the voltmeter, where did you connect, was the meter set to volts dc, were the leads in the correct sockets?

Yes I think 14 is about right.

I think that I may have a possible answer. I'm reasonably sure that I did the static timing correctly so it may be that the advance is wrong. I will check to see if the weights are flapping about.

You should be disconnecting the vacuum advance when you're doing the dynamic timing. The book figure is a good starting point but in reality it does need a bit more advance. Are the carb mounts sagging? I had this problem but the airbox can be supported at the bracket to keep everything steady. Also make sure your throttle springs are in decent condition. One of mine had stretched but fortunately, I had a spare one.

AlanH wrote: I set the static timing (as per the manual)...

Toledo Man wrote:You should be disconnecting the vacuum advance when you're doing the dynamic timing.

On an 1850 you need to set the static timing after making sure the advance weights are fully retracted.
The springs go weak with old age and dont pull them back. A drop of oil on each pin and a smear of grease on the
round bits helps a lot. New springs are available from Robsport.


The static technique...position crank at 11 BTDC on the marks. Set up meter on coil minus. Rotate dizzie until
the needle kicks if its electronic now...point of kick is the firing point.

On points it obviously goes open circuit when the points open and short when closed so on coil minus it will go from low (effectively zero) volts to battery if that's where you are looking...

If your low volts reading with points closed is high you need new (or clean) points.


Jonners

On points it obviously goes open circuit when the points open and short when closed so on coil minus it will go from low (effectively zero) volts to battery if that's where you are looking...

I connected the meter between the battery positive terminal and the wire from the dizzy so it's the other way round.

New springs are available from Robsport.

This is interesting, I bought new springs from Robsport some time ago. I have managed to get hold of some original ones, they are much more substantial than the Robsport ones (see below). It says on the Robsport site that you need 2. I wonder if they mean 2 per weight.

Some great info here about 1850 timing which is appreciated I hope you get it set up ok.

Kind Regards

Russell.