1500 clutch woes

[cleverusername]

I can't get the clutch on my 1500 to engage. It has a relatively new master cylinder, new slave cylinder, newish clutch, newish release bearing and I replaced the plastic clutch pipe with a copper one.

I have bled the system repeatedly, bled it with the back end of the car jacked up and bled it with the cylinder out and held with the bled screw at the highest point. I get nothing but fluid through the system, which suggest no air, but the clutch doesn't engage.

Theories:

1)There is still air I can't shift, but I am finding that difficult to believe.

2)The clutch itself has somehow failed.

3)the new slave is faulty or the wrong part. It doesn't appear to be leaking and I have refitted it, and I think I have it fitted correctly.

Basically I am a bit stuck, I was hoping someone might have some suggestions.

[Carledo]

I take it what you are actually saying is the clutch will not disengage, or in other words you cannot engage gears when the engine is running.
If you are confident that you have the hydraulic system sorted (and you seem to be) I can think of 2 possible causes. 1) the clutch has frozen to the flywheel whilst the car has been laid up (which I think it has) or 2) The sping pin that holds the clutch fork in place (opposite to the slave cylinder) has fallen out or snapped.

Steve

[cleverusername]

I take it what you are actually saying is the clutch will not disengage, or in other words you cannot engage gears when the engine is running.
If you are confident that you have the hydraulic system sorted (and you seem to be) I can think of 2 possible causes. 1) the clutch has frozen to the flywheel whilst the car has been laid up (which I think it has) or 2) The sping pin that holds the clutch fork in place (opposite to the slave cylinder) has fallen out or snapped.

Steve

Not 100% confident, I don't really trust hydraulic clutchs.

It did occur to me it could be stuck, It happened when it was layed up for months, and we shocked it off by starting it in gear. However it has only been standing for a couple of weeks.

Think the pin is OK, I could move the bearing carrier by hand when I fitted the slave and it made a clanking noise like it was hitting the pressure plate when I pushed it in.

[Edin Dundee]

Two weeks can be enough. Especially if the garage roof is leaking.

[cleverusername]

Two weeks can be enough. Especially if the garage roof is leaking.

Sitting on the drive at the moment. Would starting it in gear with the clutch down do the trick if it is stuck?

[Edin Dundee]

Yes, that's the way I do it. 3 times now in the 6 years or so I've had the car, it's a punishment for neglecting the car.

[tony g]

My sprint clutch gets stuck after only 2 weeks so its a good possibility

Tony

[cliftyhanger]

Letting the car run for a bit (ie warming it all up) before attempting to free the clutch can help. As can keeping the clutch pedal down while it is warming up (bit of wood jammed in rather than a leg, unless you are REALLY bored)

[Carledo]

The clank could also be the clutch fork hitting the front of the gearbox cos the pin has fallen out! All it means when this happens is that the pivot point for the clutch fork moves back about an inch, but it's the difference between working and not working!
But try the free off from frozen first, it may only have been a couple of weeks, but they have been VERY wet weeks and condensation makes these components stick together faster than anything!

Steve

[Jon Tilson]

Sadly I too have been in the position where a replacement slave cylinder even after bleeding solid against the circlip, so I knew
it had no air - failed to free the clutch off on an ohv car.

You need to compare your old and new cylinders and look at where the groove (the one the retaning bolt goes through on the clamp thingy) is on the slave body. On your new one it may not be in the same place so your resting position is too far back.

Daft - but there it is.

In this case I could start the car in gear and the clutch wasnt stuck. It just wouldnt let me put it in gear from rest.

Different slave fixed it.

Jonners

[soe8m]

Wrong diameter cilinders or a axial bearing dropped in the sump.

Jeroen

[Richard the old one]

Following on from Jon. I now always make a point of ensuring that the slave cylinder is pushed as far forward as possible before I clamp it up as the grove in the slave cylinder will allow quite a bit of fore and aft movement.

[Jon Tilson]

As Jeroen says it is indeed worth checking for excess crank thrust wear.

Many a 1500 has ended its days with a shot crank thrust and knackered rear bearing carrier.

Jonners

[cleverusername]

Thanks for the replies. Wrong slave did occur to me, to be blunt too many classic part supplies are hopeless.

It could be thrust washers, but there is no movement of the front pulley, which I would expect to find.

[Jon Tilson]

You should feel no more than about 5 thou movement on the front pulley. When knackered they can move nearly 1/4 inch.

Sounds like wrong slave then.

Jonners