Kickdown Cable

[AlanH]

I have just changed my carbs and set the kickdown (i.e. 1.5 mm after throttle take up).

The up shifts are fine but the down shifts can be a bit harsh.

Can anybody tell me whether I need to tighten up or slacken off the kickdown cable.

[Toledo Man]

Is your engine tuned correctly? You might need to setup the replacement carbs. Be certain the ignition is 100% first. Also, make sure the inner cable isn't sticking. A bit of penetrating fluid of choice should keep it working freely.

[tony g]

Tighten the cable a few turns and test again

Tony

[Toledo Man]

The 1.5mm gap is the gap between the end of the sheath (the threaded part) and the crimped stop on the inner cable. It might be also worth pulling the inner cable to make sure the downshift mechanism is operating. I think mine needs some slight adjustment since I did the driveplate swap back in November. A quick look in the Haynes suggests an incorrect idling speed as a possible cause of the poor quality downshift which might have stemmed from your recent carb replacement.

[markas]

I've just had the club solid carb mounts fitted & after this all the linkages including the kickdown cable needed readjusting. My mechanic adjusted the carbs to get the car ticking over at 650 rpm once warmed up. All gear changes are now really smooth & there's much less of a jolt when going between P, R, N & D.

[Toledo Man]

Solid carb mounts are on my wish list. I was able to support the bottom bracket on my airbox which has helped to stop the carbs from sagging as much but really, I need to fit the solid carb mounts.

[markas]

Solid carb mounts are on my wish list. I was able to support the bottom bracket on my airbox which has helped to stop the carbs from sagging as much but really, I need to fit the solid carb mounts.

I can thoroughly recommend them. They are great quality and are of course 'fit and forget' unlike the rubber mountings, especially the remanufactured ones.