Storage hints
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Storage hints
Hello again all
I would much appreciate any tips on storing my dolly sprint for the winter months, I currently store her in my garage with
a stormproof cover and have basic knowledge of this subject.
Would you suggest resting sprint on blocks?
Is it advised to keep cover on in garage?
Removing battery or trickle charge with battery still connected?
Would you remove plugs and oil the cylinders?
Fill the petrol tank and add anti corrosion additives?
Any advise no matter how silly it may sound would be much appreciated.
UFH 888S will be in a garage for for the next week having gaskets changed so won't be at Calne, Wiltshire this weekend.
This is a shame as I was looking forward to the event.
Many thanks Mick
I would much appreciate any tips on storing my dolly sprint for the winter months, I currently store her in my garage with
a stormproof cover and have basic knowledge of this subject.
Would you suggest resting sprint on blocks?
Is it advised to keep cover on in garage?
Removing battery or trickle charge with battery still connected?
Would you remove plugs and oil the cylinders?
Fill the petrol tank and add anti corrosion additives?
Any advise no matter how silly it may sound would be much appreciated.
UFH 888S will be in a garage for for the next week having gaskets changed so won't be at Calne, Wiltshire this weekend.
This is a shame as I was looking forward to the event.
Many thanks Mick
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Re: Storage hints
Long term storage of any kind isn't recommended.
I would still drive it once a month to stop hydraulic cylinders seizing, clutch plates binding and countless other ills and gremlins that are
caused by lack of use.
If you MUST store, then do so in a well ventilated place with minimal condensation.
Axle stands are good for tyres and mean you can also exercise the oily bits without moving it.
Keep the battery charged up, or just disconnect the earth. A good battery should be fine for 6 months like this.
Jonners
I would still drive it once a month to stop hydraulic cylinders seizing, clutch plates binding and countless other ills and gremlins that are
caused by lack of use.
If you MUST store, then do so in a well ventilated place with minimal condensation.
Axle stands are good for tyres and mean you can also exercise the oily bits without moving it.
Keep the battery charged up, or just disconnect the earth. A good battery should be fine for 6 months like this.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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Re: Storage hints
Thanks Jon for early reply
I was intending to drive now and again for a mile or two as soon as there would be a dry road
Do you store your car in a garage with a cover on or would you consider this to interfere with ventilation?
Regards Mick
I was intending to drive now and again for a mile or two as soon as there would be a dry road
Do you store your car in a garage with a cover on or would you consider this to interfere with ventilation?
Regards Mick
Re: Storage hints
I've always kept classics in a garage without any additional cover and no problems. I have seen damage done due to condensation forming between the car and the cover causing microblistering or crazing in paint.
Fiamma make shaped 'tyresavers' to prevent the tyres forming flat spots. I got two sets last Christmas and will be trying them out at the end of this season. The advantage over axle stands is they are 'roll on, roll off' so you can easily give the car a run on a nice winter's day.
I do put a moisture trap bag inside one car which is stored in a very basic timber garage to prevent any damp from forming inside and use a ctek battery conditioner to keep the battery topped up. The cheap alternative is to fit a 'discarnect' rotary knob to isolate the battery - a good basic anti-theft device as well
Fiamma make shaped 'tyresavers' to prevent the tyres forming flat spots. I got two sets last Christmas and will be trying them out at the end of this season. The advantage over axle stands is they are 'roll on, roll off' so you can easily give the car a run on a nice winter's day.
I do put a moisture trap bag inside one car which is stored in a very basic timber garage to prevent any damp from forming inside and use a ctek battery conditioner to keep the battery topped up. The cheap alternative is to fit a 'discarnect' rotary knob to isolate the battery - a good basic anti-theft device as well

Last edited by markas on Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark
1980 Dolomite 1850HL Auto
1977 Dolomite 1500
1980 Dolomite 1850HL Auto
1977 Dolomite 1500
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Re: Storage hints
A well fitting indoor car cover will keep the dust off. Make sure nothing can fall on to the car - garden tools ladders and other items often stored in garages can make a bit of a mess of bodywork when they come into contact with it. Agreeing with Jonners, I've found to my cost that laying up cars in less than ideal conditions for extended periods can cause more problems than if the car was taken out for a decent drive (20 miles or more) every week.
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Re: Storage hints
Definitely do NOT cover the car, you risk condensation under the cover which in cold weather can cause micro blistering.
Above all make sure the garage is dry and well ventilated.
I have put cars to bed for the winter for many years now with no problems. Change the oil before they are put away. Do not be tempted to start the engine for short periods without fully warming it up, you risk condensation and acidity combustion by products causing problems. Best to leave it all winter without running, if you are not going to use it regularly.
Do use a battery trickle charger such as CTEK, these are great at keeping the battery in good condition.
I would not be concerned about flat spotting tyres provided they are correct pressure and hold the pressure. I also would not be concerned about the fuel, but don't put it away with a full fuel tank.
The key is how to start them again at the start of next season. Remove spark plugs, squirt of oil done plug holes, crank it over on the battery to get oil pressure up and oil circulating.This will also prime the carbs. Then replace plugs, start and run at low revs until nicely warmed up.
Above all make sure the garage is dry and well ventilated.
I have put cars to bed for the winter for many years now with no problems. Change the oil before they are put away. Do not be tempted to start the engine for short periods without fully warming it up, you risk condensation and acidity combustion by products causing problems. Best to leave it all winter without running, if you are not going to use it regularly.
Do use a battery trickle charger such as CTEK, these are great at keeping the battery in good condition.
I would not be concerned about flat spotting tyres provided they are correct pressure and hold the pressure. I also would not be concerned about the fuel, but don't put it away with a full fuel tank.
The key is how to start them again at the start of next season. Remove spark plugs, squirt of oil done plug holes, crank it over on the battery to get oil pressure up and oil circulating.This will also prime the carbs. Then replace plugs, start and run at low revs until nicely warmed up.
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Re: Storage hints
Thank you all for your advice
I will be investing in the CTEK trickle charger and Fiamma tyre savers for certain.
My 'Stormforce' cover it seems will not be having much use after all!
Any further advice would be appreciated
Have a good day at Calne this weekend to those that are going.
Mick
I will be investing in the CTEK trickle charger and Fiamma tyre savers for certain.
My 'Stormforce' cover it seems will not be having much use after all!
Any further advice would be appreciated
Have a good day at Calne this weekend to those that are going.
Mick
Re: Storage hints
3,5 bar in the tires. Ctek charger en the first start up without plugs till oil pressure.
My former boss did always start up cars after 20 years storage. Check oil level, booster pack, a few liters fresh petrol, trying 15 minutes, new plugs, start and drive. After the return some air in the tires. To the body shop. In the showroom and when sold always wondering why there was so much work to do on it.
The conclusion is even if you just park your car and start it 25 years later nothing happens.
Jeroen
My former boss did always start up cars after 20 years storage. Check oil level, booster pack, a few liters fresh petrol, trying 15 minutes, new plugs, start and drive. After the return some air in the tires. To the body shop. In the showroom and when sold always wondering why there was so much work to do on it.

The conclusion is even if you just park your car and start it 25 years later nothing happens.
Jeroen
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com
Re: Storage hints
Definitely no cover!
If there are extreme temperatures shifts overnight (more than 10C or so) open the garage door and make sure the condensation can evaporate off of the metal bits, tools and spares included. Windy days are good for changing the garage air, as long as the door doesn't fall off.
A drive up and down the car park helps, I do this in winter, too much salt on the roads.
If there are extreme temperatures shifts overnight (more than 10C or so) open the garage door and make sure the condensation can evaporate off of the metal bits, tools and spares included. Windy days are good for changing the garage air, as long as the door doesn't fall off.
