Gearstick ate the overdrive wire, again.

[GrahamFountain]

I wouldn't care that much, but the radio's on the same circuit, and we all know how important a really loud stereo is to a Triumph.

Anybody got any suggestions on how to run the overdrive wire to avoid it being eaten through, i.e. around the front or the back, or through a P clip, etc.?

Also, anybody got any thoughts on the use of steel wire armoured cabling? That would mean sourcing the connectors separately, but that can't be too hard can it?

Graham

[Galileo]

I didn't have a wiring loom when I converted mine to overdrive so bought myself a proper wire. In the end though I just could not get the connectors to go up the tube and out again so wondering what would be strong enough I hit upon using some mains cable for a table lamp and soldered on the connectors after pushing it through. I did leave a bit of play at the gearbox end and admittedly did not put it through the little hole in the gaiter but along the tube. So far it's been fine for a few thousand miles.

[GrahamFountain]

The one I got was basically some lamp cord with nearly the right connectors on. Like you I ran it down the side of the stick. I them ran it round the behind the stick to the connectors to the switch on the left side. However, it's caught on somthing after I screwed the gaiter down and put the carpet back, etc. and only lasted about a month. I've repaired it as best, and run it round the front this time, with a bit trapped under the front of the gaiter ring. Hopefully, that'll hold it out of the way. However, I wondered if there should be a P clip somewhere to do that.

Graham

[cliftyhanger]

I use a small cable tie to attach the wire to the stick just below the hole where it comes out, so the cable doesn't rub. Then a relaxed loop and cable tied again. Seems to work fine for me!

[Jon Tilson]

The stick looms currently on sale for about a tenner are basically some connectors crimped on to two core lighting cable.

They can be fed up the stick through the hole in the side but before doing that make sure there are no sharp burrs on the hole. I arrange
the cable so one connector is ahead of the other by pulling one end through the outer sleeve a tad. The the connectors will go in the hole
and up the stick. You need to be sure that no bare ends come into contact with the stick at the top and short out. This is VERY important.

The solenoid coil can and does act like a mini ignition so sparks will jump to the stick if insulation is inadequate.

Cable tie to relieve strain seems a good idea.

Jonners

[cliftyhanger]

The cable ties are there more to stop the wire rubbing as it comes out the hole in the gearstick, and also control the postion/length loop of wire. I think this is important to stop premature chafing or fracturing.

It should be possible to get some "extra flexible" cable. Chafing is only an issue at either end of the gearstick, so some heatshrink would be a good idea.

[GlenM]

This cable will do the job:-

http://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products ... by-the-mtr

Very flexible and will withstand mechanical stress.

[Galileo]

Good call, though possibly 9mm is too big to get through the hole?

[toromod]

Given that the wiring in modern cars appears to be much thinner, would a couple of lengths of that be any good, allowing connectors to be attached once through the gearstick "tunnel" . I have to admit to very little knowledge of electrical wire/current compatibility though I'm sure somebody on here will be clued up on such matters!!

[Galileo]

The J type solenoid draws <800ma I believe, so 0.5mm² cable would be fine and that's pretty thin stuff.

[Mahesh]

When I had the tunnel out I should have put a couple of these in near reach under the gearstick console.

2016-10-30 19.05.52.png (569.66 KiB) Viewed 2762 times

It would allow a quick and easy change of cable whenever required.

They are reusable and simply clamp the cable to an internal bus bar type of arrangement.

Next time

[Henk]

Probably not the kind of help you want but I stil give it a try.
I changed the position of the switch. I placed a non-OD knob and placed an ordinary flick switch at the gear stick console. In my kind of relaxed driving just near the place where I rest my hand. Within reach of my fingertips to switch the OD on or off. No hassle with electrics since.

[Carledo]

Probably not the kind of help you want but I stil give it a try.
I changed the position of the switch. I placed a non-OD knob and placed an ordinary flick switch at the gear stick console. In my kind of relaxed driving just near the place where I rest my hand. Within reach of my fingertips to switch the OD on or off. No hassle with electrics since.

If it comes to that, I always preferred the column mounted switch as used on the earlier models of GT6/Spitfire. much easier to operate and can be used without taking your hands off the wheel. I ran my GT6 with both switches in parallel for a while, because I could and to see which was best. I had just about decided in favour of the column switch when the decision was made for me, the gear lever snapped off at the wire hole, 10pm and 120 miles from home! A mole grip clamped to the lever stub got me home and a stock lever went on the next day! An unexpected bonus of my experiment, when the gear lever broke, the overdrive kept working!

Steve

[Henk]

Probably not the kind of help you want but I stil give it a try.
I changed the position of the switch. I placed a non-OD knob and placed an ordinary flick switch at the gear stick console. In my kind of relaxed driving just near the place where I rest my hand. Within reach of my fingertips to switch the OD on or off. No hassle with electrics since.

If it comes to that, I always preferred the column mounted switch as used on the earlier models of GT6/Spitfire. much easier to operate and can be used without taking your hands off the wheel. I ran my GT6 with both switches in parallel for a while, because I could and to see which was best. I had just about decided in favour of the column switch when the decision was made for me, the gear lever snapped off at the wire hole, 10pm and 120 miles from home! A mole grip clamped to the lever stub got me home and a stock lever went on the next day! An unexpected bonus of my experiment, when the gear lever broke, the overdrive kept working!

Steve

Great story! These cars really keep you busy... Yesterday my throttle cable snapped 200 miles from home. At least I had a nice view at the hills in shiny weather to fix the problem. And besides, the neverending sloping small roads of the Ardennes under the autumn sun where breathtaking and made up for the small niggles!