Starting problem 1850 with berg carbs

[Magenta Auto Sprint]

Of late I have been having problems starting my 1973 1850 Auto.

I went through everything last weekend; ignition timing, points gap, new rotor arm, condensor, Dizzy cap, a new coil was fitted 4 months ago, I have petrol at the pump and in the carbs.

There is also an after market electronic igniton system fitted, not sure of make, I have 12 V on cranking and 8 V when not.

The diaphrams were also replaced 4 months ago along with the rubber gaskets between the carbs and the manifold.

The only thing I can think off now is the choke or 'cold sart' device, what problems can there be with this?

The plugs were last changed 4000 miles ago.

many thanks

Malcolm

[Toledo Man]

Malcolm, you're not the only one with starting problems.

The only advice I can offer is to start from scratch. Make sure your ignition is 100% before moving on to the carbs. I'm seriously considering reinstating my Delco dizzy (with the points and condenser) just to get running again.

[MIG Wielder]

Hi Malcom, Couple of questions if you can help please.... Are the measurements of 8V and 12V on the coil positive terminal ?
If you measure the volts on the coil negative terminal while slowly turning the engine over what sort of voltages do you see there pleaese ?
Is the electronic ignition one of these "transistor assisted points" devices ? Since you have a points gap to adjust and an electronic ignition this may be the case (probably) .
Since its an early 1850 with Strombergs do you have a cermic cased ballast resistor on the inlet manifold ?
Cheers for now,
Tony.

[Magenta Auto Sprint]

Thanks Guys,
Tony,
The aftermarket electronic ignition may be a lumenition system, it is a small box mounted at right angles to the coil,

has a red and green LED at the front. The red LED goes out when the points open if the engine is turned by hand with ignition on.

I have a ceramic ballast resistor on the inlet manifold and have measured voltages on both sides of this.

The voltages I measured were on the +ve side of the coil, I'll check the other side to see if there is a differance.

My next step is to see if if it coughs when some easy start is applied.

Malcolm

[Jon Tilson]

If the ballast bypass feed is iffy you can short it out with a flying lead from battery plus to coil plus.

Only change one thing at a time...

Should be better tomorrow as its milder.

Jonners

[Magenta Auto Sprint]

An update on the 1850 (Donald) I had repalced almost everything and test everything and bypassed things etc.

I finally changed the sparking plugs and she fired up second go, I did change them less than 4000 miles ago, maybe damp I don't know, they look ok but who knows what dark secrets spark plugs hold.

Thanks again for the tips and suggestions.

malcolm

[GTS290N]

Hi Malcolm, care to share what brand and model the plugs were?

[Magenta Auto Sprint]

The old plugs were Champion N12 YCC, i don't remember buying the plugs and my local motor spares guy only sells NGK, so the plugs must have been new old stock that came with the car.

I have had the car 3 years and it was off the road for about 12 years before that, therefore they could be more than 15 years old.

Malcolm

[soe8m]

You should have started the thread with:


Of late I have been having problems starting my 1973 1850 Auto.

The plugs were last changed 4000 miles ago but are at least 15 years old.


That did save a lot of forum space.

Jeroen

[80Sprint]

Are Champions ok for the 1850 as you should steer clear on a Sprint ?
NGK's on any car for me..

[soe8m]

Champions aren't that good in any car.

Jeroen

[Galileo]

We need a like button on this forum!

You should have started the thread with:


Of late I have been having problems starting my 1973 1850 Auto.

The plugs were last changed 4000 miles ago but are at least 15 years old.


That did save a lot of forum space.

Jeroen

[Jon Tilson]

Get a set of bosch platinums...
NOS on ebay, last for ever.

the poem goes...

NGK

are for throwing away....

Jonners