The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Of late I have been having problems starting my 1973 1850 Auto.

I went through everything last weekend; ignition timing, points gap, new rotor arm, condensor, Dizzy cap, a new coil was fitted 4 months ago, I have petrol at the pump and in the carbs.

There is also an after market electronic igniton system fitted, not sure of make, I have 12 V on cranking and 8 V when not.

The diaphrams were also replaced 4 months ago along with the rubber gaskets between the carbs and the manifold.

The only thing I can think off now is the choke or 'cold sart' device, what problems can there be with this?

The plugs were last changed 4000 miles ago.

many thanks

Malcolm

Malcolm, you're not the only one with starting problems.

The only advice I can offer is to start from scratch. Make sure your ignition is 100% before moving on to the carbs. I'm seriously considering reinstating my Delco dizzy (with the points and condenser) just to get running again.

Hi Malcom, Couple of questions if you can help please.... Are the measurements of 8V and 12V on the coil positive terminal ?
If you measure the volts on the coil negative terminal while slowly turning the engine over what sort of voltages do you see there pleaese ?
Is the electronic ignition one of these "transistor assisted points" devices ? Since you have a points gap to adjust and an electronic ignition this may be the case (probably) .
Since its an early 1850 with Strombergs do you have a cermic cased ballast resistor on the inlet manifold ?
Cheers for now,
Tony.

Thanks Guys,
Tony,
The aftermarket electronic ignition may be a lumenition system, it is a small box mounted at right angles to the coil,

has a red and green LED at the front. The red LED goes out when the points open if the engine is turned by hand with ignition on.

I have a ceramic ballast resistor on the inlet manifold and have measured voltages on both sides of this.

The voltages I measured were on the +ve side of the coil, I'll check the other side to see if there is a differance.

My next step is to see if if it coughs when some easy start is applied.

Malcolm

If the ballast bypass feed is iffy you can short it out with a flying lead from battery plus to coil plus.

Only change one thing at a time...

Should be better tomorrow as its milder.

Jonners

An update on the 1850 (Donald) I had repalced almost everything and test everything and bypassed things etc.

I finally changed the sparking plugs and she fired up second go, I did change them less than 4000 miles ago, maybe damp I don't know, they look ok but who knows what dark secrets spark plugs hold.

Thanks again for the tips and suggestions.

malcolm

Hi Malcolm, care to share what brand and model the plugs were?

The old plugs were Champion N12 YCC, i don't remember buying the plugs and my local motor spares guy only sells NGK, so the plugs must have been new old stock that came with the car.

I have had the car 3 years and it was off the road for about 12 years before that, therefore they could be more than 15 years old.

Malcolm

You should have started the thread with:


Of late I have been having problems starting my 1973 1850 Auto.

The plugs were last changed 4000 miles ago but are at least 15 years old.


That did save a lot of forum space.

Jeroen

Are Champions ok for the 1850 as you should steer clear on a Sprint ?
NGK's on any car for me..

Champions aren't that good in any car.

Jeroen

We need a like button on this forum!

soe8m wrote:

You should have started the thread with:


Of late I have been having problems starting my 1973 1850 Auto.

The plugs were last changed 4000 miles ago but are at least 15 years old.


That did save a lot of forum space.

Jeroen

Get a set of bosch platinums...
NOS on ebay, last for ever.

the poem goes...

NGK

are for throwing away....

Jonners