The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

well I managed to view a few and reject a couple. Fair bit of travelling by car and by train and I now have a nice Sprint in my garage. It has a few issues as you'd expect and nothing I won't sort out over the coming weeks or months.

The man two are a spot of clutch judder and some wheel wobbles.

looking around today the subframe bolts were not torqued correctly and the gearbox mount wasn't tight either, when checking this I've also spotted a worn from prop-shaft UJ and a touch a play (about +/- 2mm) on the prop-shaft centre bearing. tightening the subframe has reduced the judder considerably but I'm not sure if the UJ and the centre bearing may be responsible for the rest? Opinions please

I've had the front wheels balanced and the wobble is less but not gone, there was too much play in one bering which has now been nipped up and I think one of the balljoint needs replacing too

None of this is unexpected and I'm a happy spannerer, but can always do with some experienced advice.

thanks

A duff front u/j won't help with the judder, that needs doing. Centre bearings are a bit more difficult to condemn. If the rubber is not split, but the prop just moves a bit in the rubber, that's probably OK. They are never movement free, even when new.

Has the car been standing? if so, the tyres may be a bit flat spotted. Give it a good run and get them warmed up and it MAY cure itself. Again, a duff balljoint (if it IS duff) won't help here.

Good luck with the project (pics are always good)

Steve

drove it 120 miles home in the heat yesterday - think that counts as a good run.

did wonder about flat spots, do Paddocks do many Sprint spares - they don't list the UJ or centre bearing. they're close to me in Chester.

I'll try a pic



nope can't do that yet

paddocks do most things for triumphs, the u/js are standard for most and are easily found
try to find a good make, not chinese import which are crap
cheers, tony.

For Sprint parts like centre bearings etc... use Robsport

If you get stuck adding pictures, see if this post helps: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=32626

I'm still trying to get a 55-65mph steering wobble eliminated, my tyre place reckons it's because the tyres have inner tubes in them, but another set of minilite wheels I have also have the same issue. I'm thinking brake discs are the culprit now and have a replacement set and new callipers I picked up as part of a powder coated subframe and suspension job lot that is destined to go on.

Galileo wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2017 11:13 am If you get stuck adding pictures, see if this post helps: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=32626

I'm still trying to get a 55-65mph steering wobble eliminated, my tyre place reckons it's because the tyres have inner tubes in them, but another set of minilite wheels I have also have the same issue. I'm thinking brake discs are the culprit now and have a replacement set and new callipers I picked up as part of a powder coated subframe and suspension job lot that is destined to go on.

You didn't say if the wheel wobble was there only if the brakes are applied, when driving i would have thought ball joints ,track rod ends ,or bushes,brake disc only when your braking ?

Dave

P.S you said you had two sets of wheels you've tried,are you using the same wheel nuts for both set of wheels,could it be the wheel nuts at fault ?

Hijacking the OPs thread, sure they won't mind though if it adds to the KB pool!

The wobble or I should say slight oscillation to be more accurate, is there in the straight ahead position without brakes applied, on motorway sweeping fast bends both lefts and rights it diminishes. Car appears to brake cleanly with no obvious grabbing on either side. Minilite wheels have different wheel nuts to Sprint Alloys, so yes, different wheel nuts, and tyre brands, one set with inner tubes, one without. Both sets balanced by two different tyre specialists, wheels swapped around, no change. Brand new TRE's fitted, different steering rack, poly steering rack bushes, alignment/geometry checked and set after all steering changes, all of which made not the slightest difference.

So that's why I think it may be the brake discs, and so I can either check the runout, or just replace them completely with a new hub and disc I have anyway. I've put up with it for years, car would almost be a bit weird without it!

if the disc /hub interface is not flat, it can cause the hub and hence the wheel to wobble a tad.
When I did my trackerjack conversion, the original hub was out of true after clocking the disc bolted up to the car. The disc (vw) was flat and true and I ended up filing the back of the hub where it mates with the disc to get runout less than 2 thou. When I worked in a BL dealership years ago we balanced most wheels on the car to take into account everything that rotated together. The machine looked like K9 off Dr Who and you sat astride it

Tony

Vauxhall used to specify on the car balancing as well, remember seeing the machine at Shaw and Kilburn about blurbal years ago. Did it say 'Affirmative mistress' when the wheel was balanced right?!