The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I was just wondering if this is a known problem: Changing down from 3rd to 2nd takes rather more force than any other gear change, even 4th to 2nd. I was wondering if it might be a lazy synchro. But there's never any grinding of the gears like if I change without disengaging the clutch properly, even if I rush the change. Just a bit more resistance than with any other gears. And 4th to 2nd isn't the same problem. Also wiggling the stick left to right, or pushing towards 1st on the way - but not into gear - seem to help a bit.

I have a complete spare box and overdrive. But I don't want to go there while it's just a minor issue - it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, and it been like this for some time, possibly since I got the car.

Graham.

What grade oil are you using? If 90 it may be worth trying 75/80 (gl4)

Tony

It is 90 IIRC, but would that not affect the other changes as well?

Graham

Hi, Is it better when really hot?

dollyman wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:17 pm Hi, Is it better when really hot?

No, much the same at all temperatures.

Graham

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:25 pm

dollyman wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:17 pm Hi, Is it better when really hot?

No, much the same at all temperatures.

Graham

Possibly a sychro problem? how about when using double declutch method?

Tony.

dollyman wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:29 pm

GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:25 pm

dollyman wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:17 pm Hi, Is it better when really hot?

No, much the same at all temperatures.

Graham

Possibly a sychro problem? how about when using double declutch method?

Tony.

Tony

How do you double declutch

As above
Very good article that Its how i was taught many years ago and it never goes away
Tony.

Have you checked the state of lubrication of the gear stick base? Years ago I had a stiff change, so I took the tunnel covers off and greased
the gearstick base under the sprung cup where it goes on the box remote extension.

You just need to do the tray and carpet and rubber grommet. The main tunnel can stay in place.

No crunching means the synchros are probably ok... when its greased you will tell better.

Jonners

dollyman wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:29 pm how about when using double declutch method?

Tony.

It does seem to help if I blip the throttle, or wait for the car to slow, or just firmly hold the stick against the gear (if that makes sense). But double cluching itself doesn't seem to make much if any difference - though it's not a skill I'm practiced at.

Graham

Jon Tilson wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:06 pm Have you checked the state of lubrication of the gear stick base? Years ago I had a stiff change, so I took the tunnel covers off and greased
the gearstick base under the sprung cup where it goes on the box remote extension.

You just need to do the tray and carpet and rubber grommet. The main tunnel can stay in place.

No crunching means the synchros are probably ok... when its greased you will tell better.

Jonners

I haven't tried that yet. I should, because I was down there replacing the overdrive feed not so long back, but I forgot till it was all back together. I'm hoping the lack of crunch is a good sign, though that a blip seems to help it drop in worries me.

Graham

hi Graham, It sounds to me to be a sychro fault,as blipping the throttle is nearly double de clutching. Although i would try "Jonners" fix first or try changing the oil to a thinner spec. Also make sure it is gl4.
I would always start at the cheapest way first and then work your way up if thats any help?
Cheers, Tony.