2 steps forward....

[cliftyhanger]

And rather more back.
Today the rear of the Toledo was bolted up nice and tight (jack under the axle, so in running position. Took for a drive and all my "issues" with skipping etc have gone. The car is a delight now.Lovely.
Next, distributor. A year or so ago I bought a Saab recon dizzy for not much more than the value of the cap/rotor arm etc. And it was a decent built. The advance weights are the same but the base plate is a 25 degree one as opposed to the 16 degrees fitted to the car.
Sorted that by welding and filing the advance "hole/slot) to exactly match the old one. I tried the new Robsport springs, but they felt loose compared to the existing ones. Most of the play seemed to be in the weights and the pins that hold them. Refitted the TR7 vacuum advance, took for a drive and added advance until it pinked, then back a bit. I need to borrow a strobe with an advance control thingy to get the curve, see if it is accurate.

So all that is good news. The really bad new is that I think I have HGF. Been getting water on the block under the inlet manifold. I was hoping it was the transfer O ring, but cunning investigations suggest there are a few places along the HG that water is seeping out. No other symptoms. However, it will need doing, especially as I have the RBRR coming up in October. But planning on tackling it after Easter when I have a bit more time and a clearer head (pardon the pun)
I will be seeking advice at some point in the near future. Good news is that I do have a spare head should it come to that.

[xvivalve]

Clive,

If you have the standard fan, it can throw coolant leaking from anywhere on the front of the engine onto that shelf beneath the carbs. I've had this symptom several times on different cars over the years and it has never been HGF...

Alun

[cliftyhanger]

Electric fan.....

I did spray the entire are with brake cleaner to get rid of any signs of leaks, then I stuffed a load of "blue garage tissue stuff" in the area under the front of the inlet manifold in case it is the O ring failed. But there was a definite tell-tale between 2+3.
Must say, not a job I am looking forward to. I think I will take off the inlet, check and re-assemble first, at that is fairly quick and doesn't involve much swearing

[Toledo Man]

Clive, if you have to remove the inlet manifold get your new gaskets from Fitchett's. When I got my 1850 it had HS6 carbs on a TR7 manifold. I did a straight swap with Alun for a set of HS4s on an 1850 manifold. I did the swap and bought the gaskets from Fitchett's and it has been fine ever since. Not even the bypass tube has leaked (might've got lucky on that one!). Have you done a compression test? It might highlight where the problem is.

[cliftyhanger]

No point in a compression test, there are absolutely no other signs of HGF. And even when I have had HGF on other cars compression was always fine, so I have little confidence in compression tests. Leakdown test is better in my experience.

I think I will wait until the Stoneleigh show, see what turns up. I want a Payen HG (and ideally the other gaskets too) unless I can find Stanpart stuff. You never know, I may get lucky!

But enough of the negative stuff. I should be celebrating the fact the car is steering/handling so well after all the grief I have had.
The moral of the story, if you can't buy genuine Stanpart/metalastic/Rover bushes, buy poly. And double heck the axle attachment points I just wish I had paid more attention when I fitted the axle.

[tony g]

Good work on the back end . On the HG, it may be worth whipping cam cover off and checking the torque on the studs/nuts, even check to see if the studs can turn with the nut backed off. One at a time shouldnt affect anything. Be nice to know the studs are free before you tackle it.

Tony

[cliftyhanger]

Sadly, the TR7 head has all teh bolts/studs exposed to the atmosphere. I did put a socket and big breaker bar on each of the nuts, but without getting brutal none wanted to even move. Either way. So I am not hopeful
However, as I said above, I do have a spare head. And access to a 9" grinder so the head WILL be removed (I won't say taken off, there is a good chance the head won't survive)

[Toledo Man]

Have you got an impact gun? It might help get the nuts off without too much trouble. Plenty of your penetrating fluid of choice might help. Failing that, you might have to resort to the breaker bar no matter what the outcome is.

[soe8m]

Using the impact gun like Dave suggested is the best method. Hanging on a bar causes torque and breach and an impact gun doesn't hang. Studs that have grown into the head you can hammer first with a non turning hammer drill or hammer chisel. Most of the time they get loose that way. But hammer those before destroying the slot or accidentally shortening the stud by trying first with grip pliers.

Jeroen

[cliftyhanger]

I do have a cheap impact gun, but also access to aCP one, and may be able to source a 3/4" version (weekends only!)
And good tip on using a SDS type drill, I have a couple of different sized ones. I do have a Kango roadbreaker in the shed too, but that would be silly!
I appreciate these tips, and holding a drill on the stud is a lot less grief than using a hammer/punch. And I reckon I can get a SDS chisel and adapt it to fit over the stud (cut the end off, drill the "stump" so the stud is a tight fit)

As a thought, penetrating oil is going to struggle to get far. What about using an acid to dissolve the corrosion? Just an idea...good dose of acid, rinse and then penetrating oil (I believe acetone/ATF mix is about the best)

Cheers
Clive