Fuse box issues.
Fuse box issues.
I wanted to replace my fuse box with a spade version as I was having some reliability issues on the connections. I purchased a 4 way box but the spade terminals are singles, I believe the original may have been double, the one I took off was lucas but was also not original.
With accessories I am stuck now with a lack of connections but I also don't want a huge box in the engine bay. Even more confusing was I seem to have different colours on some connections than the manual.
4 green, 2 White , 3 brown which all seem original out of the loom.
Those that have put a fuse box under the dash. How did you extend the wires to the new location to make it neat and waterproof ?
I was looking to see if you can get piggyback connections but it seems you have to use one part of the piggyback on a lead rather than something that just lets you add additional connections.
I have an electric fan and fuel pump plus a couple of other small accessories all joining the box.
Any suggestions on the best way to make this reliable and tidy it up ? Even pictures of what you have done would be good thanks .
With accessories I am stuck now with a lack of connections but I also don't want a huge box in the engine bay. Even more confusing was I seem to have different colours on some connections than the manual.
4 green, 2 White , 3 brown which all seem original out of the loom.
Those that have put a fuse box under the dash. How did you extend the wires to the new location to make it neat and waterproof ?
I was looking to see if you can get piggyback connections but it seems you have to use one part of the piggyback on a lead rather than something that just lets you add additional connections.
I have an electric fan and fuel pump plus a couple of other small accessories all joining the box.
Any suggestions on the best way to make this reliable and tidy it up ? Even pictures of what you have done would be good thanks .
Mike
1980 Vermillion Sprint - 174bhp
1980 Vermillion Sprint - 174bhp
Re: Fuse box issues.
Buy a new original type and all does fit again. The only issues you have is an old fuse box and not because of its using glass fuses. A new original glass fuse one will last another 30 years.
When I need more fuses I always fit another one below. Looks original and then spades enough again to fit your extra accessories.
Jeroen
When I need more fuses I always fit another one below. Looks original and then spades enough again to fit your extra accessories.
Jeroen
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com
Re: Fuse box issues.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15812&hilit=fuse+box+upgrade
There are lots of other fusebox photo's on other threads that have been bucketed, Flyfisherman's upgrade is one of them, I'm sure that would have been very good to look at. Tripletango's sounds good. Bloody photosuckit
There are lots of other fusebox photo's on other threads that have been bucketed, Flyfisherman's upgrade is one of them, I'm sure that would have been very good to look at. Tripletango's sounds good. Bloody photosuckit
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- TDC Shropshire Area Organiser
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Re: Fuse box issues.
Depends just HOW complex you want to make things!
This is the fuse box i've built for the Dolomega, it's a 16 fuse box from car builder solutions. only 14 are currently in use leaving room for later expansion if needed, there is also a secondary board on the n/s flitch with 6 fuses for headlights, spotlights and horn. As well as a grand total of 11 relays around the car.
The 14 fuses in the main board cover separate fuses for instruments, reverse lights, wash/wipe, brake lights, indicators, heater fan, HRW, fuel pump, stereo, faglighter, electric windows, central locking, clock/hazard/interior lights and sidelights.
All this re-engineering has come at at a cost, namely an almost complete rebuild and re-orientation of the main loom to make everything work correctly! Some may think it's overkill, but I have had to do so much wiring to make the engine and transmission management work, I thought it best to update the car's systems to modern standards as well!

Steve
This is the fuse box i've built for the Dolomega, it's a 16 fuse box from car builder solutions. only 14 are currently in use leaving room for later expansion if needed, there is also a secondary board on the n/s flitch with 6 fuses for headlights, spotlights and horn. As well as a grand total of 11 relays around the car.
The 14 fuses in the main board cover separate fuses for instruments, reverse lights, wash/wipe, brake lights, indicators, heater fan, HRW, fuel pump, stereo, faglighter, electric windows, central locking, clock/hazard/interior lights and sidelights.
All this re-engineering has come at at a cost, namely an almost complete rebuild and re-orientation of the main loom to make everything work correctly! Some may think it's overkill, but I have had to do so much wiring to make the engine and transmission management work, I thought it best to update the car's systems to modern standards as well!

Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
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Re: Fuse box issues.
Hi Mike, Taking each point in turn...
4 green, 2 white cables sound OK for a >15,000 RHD Sprint. There should be 1 x brown and a purple wire. But B.L. may have modded the brown wires to terminate at the fuse box rather than the in-line battery + connector block. I think yours is quite a late one from memory.
To do an adaptor block how about one of the following.
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/ys/ ... terApplied
They are not shrouded but even a 2-way one will give plenty of scope for accessories. You need to do a few link wires though.
Here is my solution: the 4-fuse MGB box. You have to get it wired correctly though as there is an internal brass link wired between 2 terminals. You can see it from underneath.
Tony.
4 green, 2 white cables sound OK for a >15,000 RHD Sprint. There should be 1 x brown and a purple wire. But B.L. may have modded the brown wires to terminate at the fuse box rather than the in-line battery + connector block. I think yours is quite a late one from memory.
To do an adaptor block how about one of the following.
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/ys/ ... terApplied
They are not shrouded but even a 2-way one will give plenty of scope for accessories. You need to do a few link wires though.
Here is my solution: the 4-fuse MGB box. You have to get it wired correctly though as there is an internal brass link wired between 2 terminals. You can see it from underneath.
Tony.
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- shaunroche
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Re: Fuse box issues.
Come and see some pretty shoddy, slow driving of a really well prepared competition Sprint here!
http://www.youtube.com/@theunknownworrier
Club Triumph Round Britain Reliability Run 2025 Fund raising page:
https://wonderful.org/fundraisers/n8AYV ... derful.org
http://www.youtube.com/@theunknownworrier
Club Triumph Round Britain Reliability Run 2025 Fund raising page:
https://wonderful.org/fundraisers/n8AYV ... derful.org
Re: Fuse box issues.
Here is the original type...
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
I prefer to use these....
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
One for ignition fed and another for live fed, bonus feature is easily seeing what fuse has blown although not very original looking.
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
I prefer to use these....
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
One for ignition fed and another for live fed, bonus feature is easily seeing what fuse has blown although not very original looking.
Some people are like Slinky's, they serve no real purpose in life but bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.
Re: Fuse box issues.
I like original, but that goes on my list of sensible upgrades, and easy to revert back.TrustNo1 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:49 pm Here is the original type...
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
I prefer to use these....
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
One for ignition fed and another for live fed, bonus feature is easily seeing what fuse has blown although not very original looking.
I take it for the 'unfused' circuits (eg coil LT positive) you would just pop an unfeasibly large fuse in, say 40A?
- gmsclassics
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- Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Re: Fuse box issues.
Interesting as I used that exact 10 way fusebox https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63 on my race car when it developed wiring connections issues that resulted in blown fuses. As all the fuses are connected to a single power supply, you would need separate fuseboxes of this type for supply that is always on and that which is controlled by the ignition switch.
I left the 'always on' wiring through the existing (original) Lucas 2 fuse unit and all of the ignition controlled wiring then went through this 10 way unit. By mounting on the wing at right angles to the original unit, I was able to re route the wiring slightly so none needed extending or replacing. I used 9 connections including non original accessories, leaving one free. I suppose I could have used a smaller fusebox and doubled up the wires to each fuse. Selecting fuses was a matter of educated guesswork. No issues since, but I do have a piece of paper in the glovebox that tells me what each fuse is connected to as I'm bound to forget!
Could post a photo if that would be of help.
Geoff
I left the 'always on' wiring through the existing (original) Lucas 2 fuse unit and all of the ignition controlled wiring then went through this 10 way unit. By mounting on the wing at right angles to the original unit, I was able to re route the wiring slightly so none needed extending or replacing. I used 9 connections including non original accessories, leaving one free. I suppose I could have used a smaller fusebox and doubled up the wires to each fuse. Selecting fuses was a matter of educated guesswork. No issues since, but I do have a piece of paper in the glovebox that tells me what each fuse is connected to as I'm bound to forget!
Could post a photo if that would be of help.
Geoff
Re: Fuse box issues.
I think I have 30amp on the coil for the 1850 but can't remember off the top of my head.GTS290N wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:16 pmI like original, but that goes on my list of sensible upgrades, and easy to revert back.TrustNo1 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:49 pm Here is the original type...
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
I prefer to use these....
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/63
One for ignition fed and another for live fed, bonus feature is easily seeing what fuse has blown although not very original looking.
I take it for the 'unfused' circuits (eg coil LT positive) you would just pop an unfeasibly large fuse in, say 40A?
Some people are like Slinky's, they serve no real purpose in life but bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.
Re: Fuse box issues.
Thanks guys. I ditched the modern one and went with the MG 4 glass fuse type. Much more in keeping with the car and not that far off the original but with two more fuses.
Mike
1980 Vermillion Sprint - 174bhp
1980 Vermillion Sprint - 174bhp