Sprint Suspension Set Up

[ham204]

Can someone advise what would be a good front/rear suspension set up for track/road use?

I've heard that Sprints benefit for a soft rear suspension and a harder front setup. Is this correct and what would be suitable springs and shocks to achieve that purpose?

[going_downhill]

I've just fitted Gaz height adjustable dampers with new standard sprint springs from Rimmers. At the same time a full Poly bush kit was fitted. It drives great and now corners impeccably, however i'm glad i didnt fit the uprated springs as it is borderline tolerable on the road as it is.

It is sitting about as low as i dare go, although its not seen a track yet it feels like it would be the perfect setup considering how well its handling been thrown in to the twisties.

I did a fair bit of forum digging before taking the plunge on standard springs. Seems like the way to go especially if you want to use it on the road also.

[Carledo]

The front of a Sprint will tolerate a stiffer spring, maybe up to 175lb but I wouldn't put anything much over stock poundage in the back unless you have an LSD. An open diffed car will just cock a rear wheel and lose traction at just the wrong moment! And Gaz ASP shox all round for ride height control and fine tuning of balance.

As you correctly say, a Sprint (or most any front engined RWD car) works best with a stiffish front end and a softish rear.

It's not a Sprint admittedly, but a lighter 2 door. And yes, i'm a hoon! Power on into the apex of Quarry corner at Castle Coombe and she's trying really hard to lift the inside rear. It didn't happen this time but on several other (maybe quicker) laps I was getting some spin up. Guess what? I can't afford an LSD! Car has stock Sprint front springs and stock Toledo rears, all over ASP Gaz.



Steve

[ham204]

GAZ have been mentioned (twice).

So, no SPAX or AVO?

[ham204]

I've just fitted Gaz height adjustable dampers with new standard sprint springs from Rimmers. At the same time a full Poly bush kit was fitted. It drives great and now corners impeccably, however i'm glad i didnt fit the uprated springs as it is borderline tolerable on the road as it is.

It is sitting about as low as i dare go, although its not seen a track yet it feels like it would be the perfect setup considering how well its handling been thrown in to the twisties.

I did a fair bit of forum digging before taking the plunge on standard springs. Seems like the way to go especially if you want to use it on the road also.

Thanks. It will be 80% road use and maybe 20% sprint and track use.

When you write that it is as low as you dare go, is that because of the shock settings or the springs?

[going_downhill]

I've just fitted Gaz height adjustable dampers with new standard sprint springs from Rimmers. At the same time a full Poly bush kit was fitted. It drives great and now corners impeccably, however i'm glad i didnt fit the uprated springs as it is borderline tolerable on the road as it is.

It is sitting about as low as i dare go, although its not seen a track yet it feels like it would be the perfect setup considering how well its handling been thrown in to the twisties.

I did a fair bit of forum digging before taking the plunge on standard springs. Seems like the way to go especially if you want to use it on the road also.

Thanks. It will be 80% road use and maybe 20% sprint and track use.

When you write that it is as low as you dare go, is that because of the shock settings or the springs?

If its 80% for road, I'd go standard springs if your fitting stiffer bushes to. Mines an 1850 though so i think your carrying an extra persons weight, 90kg ish.

Its as low as I dare go due to ground clearance, It handles like its on rails but the ground clearance of my subframe and exhaust mounts leaves a little bit to be desired when your faced with a speed bump. The shocks have enough adjustment to pretty much drag the under carriage along the floor.

I'd say Gaz are the most common adjustable damper going on Dollies from what I see. Readily available, good value and on par with competitors.

[Mad Mart]

I used AVOs on my track Sprint. Had them on for 10+ years and they're still going well. 400lb front springs & 200lb rears. The Sprint was only used for track days and getting to and from the circuit (no trailer queen here).

[Carledo]

There's not that much to choose between the big 3 of Gaz, AVO and Spax. Gaz work out marginally the cheapest and seem to be the best overall quality with Spax having damping and adjuster quality issues and AVO suffering accelerated wear in the lower bush (as well as being the most expensive) This is largely drawn from reports by owners on this forum and is not definitive. I've been running my Gaz for 6 years and nearly 20k road and track miles now, no problems so far........

Steve

I think Mart had an LSD in his track car, AND 175ish horses, which is probably why he was able to run rings round me, every time we were on track together. That and extreme familiarity with Coombe circuit which is his "local" track!

[Mad Mart]

Yes, my track Sprint did (does) have an LSD. I do remember someone on the forum having trouble with wear in the lower bush but I have not touched my AVOs since I installed them. I can only recall the one case though.

[soe8m]

Don't use spax. They are of a bad quality. Avo or GAZ. I had some AVO's made with a uniball as a lower bearing. That did solve the lower bush problems.

Jeroen

[gmsclassics]

If it is 80 road and 20 track, then you need a road setup as if you go full race it becomes almost undriveable on the road.

As said with race you need an LSD (worth 2-3 seconds a lap), wider sticky tyres, I run revalved Bilstein shocks, 500lb front and 225 rear springs, plus radically changed steering geometry and heaps more changes.

For your use on road and track I would first fix the brakes with something like a Trackerjack conversion with better pads (standard brakes just aren't up to track work), lower the car no more than 1 inch (lower more and you make losing the back end more likely). Decent tyres, 7/16 rather than the earlier 3/8 wheel studs/nuts. Make sure you've got Avo or GAZ shocks but don't set them too hard. Don't use poly bushes in shocks, go rubber. A decent temperature gauge and oil presuure will allow you to see what is happening when you also put more pressure on lubrication and cooling system.

Then a better seat and fixed belts or you'll be hanging on to the steering wheel to stop you driving from the passenger seat.

Finally protect yourself with decent helmet and overalls - extinguisher with metal bracket bolted to the floor in front of your seat. The Sprint is an old car and its more likely to break something on the track than on the road.

But is hellish good fun!

Geoff

Search YouTube for 'Dolomite Sprint No 20'

[ham204]

If it is 80 road and 20 track, then you need a road setup as if you go full race it becomes almost undriveable on the road.

As said with race you need an LSD (worth 2-3 seconds a lap), wider sticky tyres, I run revalved Bilstein shocks, 500lb front and 225 rear springs, plus radically changed steering geometry and heaps more changes.

For your use on road and track I would first fix the brakes with something like a Trackerjack conversion with better pads (standard brakes just aren't up to track work), lower the car no more than 1 inch (lower more and you make losing the back end more likely). Decent tyres, 7/16 rather than the earlier 3/8 wheel studs/nuts. Make sure you've got Avo or GAZ shocks but don't set them too hard. Don't use poly bushes in shocks, go rubber. A decent temperature gauge and oil presuure will allow you to see what is happening when you also put more pressure on lubrication and cooling system.

Then a better seat and fixed belts or you'll be hanging on to the steering wheel to stop you driving from the passenger seat.

Finally protect yourself with decent helmet and overalls - extinguisher with metal bracket bolted to the floor in front of your seat. The Sprint is an old car and its more likely to break something on the track than on the road.

But is hellish good fun!

Geoff

Search YouTube for 'Dolomite Sprint No 20'

You made me raring to go!!

[trackerjack]

I had standard rear and approx 250lb front with AVO all round and slightly lowered and the car was a touch slower than Marts (probably because I am slower!) round Combe and my best time was 1min 30.
The car was fine on the road but the single best mod you can make is use a tyre such as a Toyo 888 or similar as once they get up to temp on track the car is fantastic fun. Spax paint falls off and the adjusters seize and some AVO had an inferior bush arrangement so GAZ units on my Quantum 2+2 kit car were very good with no faults.

[Carledo]

Another thumbs up here for the Toyo tyres. the 888s are fantastically sticky, but even the T1R is a useful, grippy tyre, with a good life for a soft compound.

Steve

[ham204]

Does anyone have the model numbers for the front and rear GAZ adjustable shocks?

The TSSC lists GS1-2266 or GP6-2267 for the front and GP6-2268 for the rear. Are these correct?