Hi all, I'm new to the forum, having just bought an 1850 auto non runner. The starter is stuffed, but came with a spare, but I'm not sure if I can get it off without removing the exhaust manifold.. Is that right or is it possible without... I guess there's 2 bolts or is there 3?
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Alan
1850 starter motor removal
Re: 1850 starter motor removal
You shouldn't need to remove the manifold or exhaust pipe. You will need to raise the front of the car on either ramps or support it safetly on axle stands - not just a jack! Get underneath and the lower bolt can be accessed easily enough. The top one will need a long extension for your socket and ratchet, I use a long extension + a short one to reach. By working across the top of the starter between the starter itself and the underneath of the manifold you can undo the top bolt. There are usually 2 bolts holding it on an 1850.
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Re: 1850 starter motor removal
You need to use a 3/8" drive to get onto the top nut - it should be nuts on studs. You need a long extension and use the ratchet in the gap between front of engine and radiator.
When refitting the top nut pack the socket with grease to hold the nut and you can 'feel' it onto the stud. If you struggle, removing the blower motor from the bulkhead will allow you to get a finger onto the top stud.
When refitting the top nut pack the socket with grease to hold the nut and you can 'feel' it onto the stud. If you struggle, removing the blower motor from the bulkhead will allow you to get a finger onto the top stud.
Re: 1850 starter motor removal
Thanks both for quick replies.. Just the job.
Cheers
Alan
Cheers
Alan
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Re: 1850 starter motor removal
Is the starter motor definitely toast? The inhibitor switch could be faulty or there could be a bad connection at the multiplug connection at the top of the bellhousing. Another possibility is a badly adjusted selector lever. If the reverse lights come on when R is selected then the selector lever is adjusted correctly. A continuity test with a multimeter is the best way of testing the inhibitor switch and the wiring.
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West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
Re: 1850 starter motor removal
Good question.. The chap who sold it said it was faulty and it came with a spare. That said he spare needed a bit of tic to get it working. The car has been standing for 12 years, so it could be toast. I'm new to automatics, so didn't even realise there was more to it!
Have yet to get the starter off, so I'll take a look at the points that you raised.
Thanks a lot.
Cheers
Have yet to get the starter off, so I'll take a look at the points that you raised.
Thanks a lot.
Cheers
Re: 1850 starter motor removal
Starter now off and replacement back on... Thanks for the posts. Foe anyone else in the future, it looked impossible at first, but once done its relatively straightforward albeit a bit fiddly.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.