A curious electrical problem.
Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 3:46 pm
I've been blowing fuses recently. Specifically the fuse protecting the unswitched, always live, feed from the fuse box. Normally this would disable all the items that are fed from the lower 35A fuse, but some time ago I fitted the 4-fuse MGB unit and split the wiring so only half my IGN OFF electrics disappeared.
Namely the clock, the hazards, and the ciggy lighter socket. And it seemed to be completely random. So as an aid to diagnosis I swapped the 30A fuse for a series of 10A units. I did note that plugging in an accessory to the socket would kill the fuse, but so did going over a bump. Luckilly each time it happened the clock would stop to I had a sort of time stamp of events. So it looked like the problem was in the area of the dashboard. I had the heater vent off and all the wiring at the back looked good. The loom looked good so I tracked it back to the rear of the clock.
To do this you have to take the glove box out ( 2 screws on the hinge plate, 2 screws at the lower edge of the box and 2 screws holding the chrome catch on. Ah-Ha ! the bracket at the back of the clock was loose !
Now if this bracket is not fitted in the "10 past 8 " position with the riveted-on spike going through the rear bracket it can move round and short the live 12V supply. I did note that the clock was a replacement as it was date-coded 1982 !
So a fault that has taken around 30 years to show itself.
Sorry there are no photos, it was getting late when I finished.
Namely the clock, the hazards, and the ciggy lighter socket. And it seemed to be completely random. So as an aid to diagnosis I swapped the 30A fuse for a series of 10A units. I did note that plugging in an accessory to the socket would kill the fuse, but so did going over a bump. Luckilly each time it happened the clock would stop to I had a sort of time stamp of events. So it looked like the problem was in the area of the dashboard. I had the heater vent off and all the wiring at the back looked good. The loom looked good so I tracked it back to the rear of the clock.
To do this you have to take the glove box out ( 2 screws on the hinge plate, 2 screws at the lower edge of the box and 2 screws holding the chrome catch on. Ah-Ha ! the bracket at the back of the clock was loose !
Now if this bracket is not fitted in the "10 past 8 " position with the riveted-on spike going through the rear bracket it can move round and short the live 12V supply. I did note that the clock was a replacement as it was date-coded 1982 !
So a fault that has taken around 30 years to show itself.
Sorry there are no photos, it was getting late when I finished.