The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

I took some CL solenoids off a scrap car in the yard the other day, i'll take some pics of the doors and solenoids in the next day or two for you, but the rears were at 45 degrees to the lock and angled downwards. The locking WAS working except one door when the car came in.

Steve

I do fit regulary locking actuators to various classics and do fit the locking actuator rod allway's directly to the lock. Sometimes I have to drill and extra hole in some lever for the actuator rod and sometimes I fit the actuator rod to the existing hole and attach the knob rod to the actuator. This way there's no friction or bending of mechanisms inbetween the actuator and the lock itself what makes the locking more smooth and longlasting.

I don't have pics by hand of a dolomite but one of a 2500. You can see the actuator rod directly on the lock. The front door has the actuator very low at the bottom of the door fitted. You can see the two screws. But being directly to the lock the lenght of the actuator rod doesn't matter that much. The wire feed through can best be made above eachother. There's no stretching or pulling that way.

One challenge was making a 2500 estate tailgate central locking. Std. you push the lock in when opening and when locking you can't push the lock in and the tailgate won't open. There wasn't a rod mechanism. I made a bracket with an actuator and a garden fence lock what did slide behind so the lock could not be pushed in anymore. Seeing the pics it looks a bit crude but still works today.

Jeroen

Yes, fitted to both of my Sprints. I did the pageant one back in 2009 and mimosa was a lockdown project this April. To be honest, as I use the cars regularly popping to the shops etc, it would rank as the most useful modification I've ever done. I used a simple kit (looks like the same as Jeroen's) https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-pa ... 614478-003, but I note they also sell ones with remote operation. I linked mine into a cheap alarm so I have
- remote lock and unlock of all 4 doors
- flashing indicators, once for lock and twice for unlock.
- automatic door locking when brake is first pressed after engine has been running for 15 seconds (ie moving off)
- automatic unlock of all 4 doors when ignition is turned off
- all doors relock if a door isn't opened within 15 secs of remote unlock (guards against accidental pressing remote)

The kit comes with all the linkages and connectors to link to the door lock actuating rods in the door. Solenoids are mounted with a couple of screws. The supplied wiring needs to be fitted through holes you drill on both door and body and wires are best covered (I used shrink-wrap) and rubber grommets used to hold them in place. Those wires are the only part visible. Took me about a day to install everything.

I hadn't worked out how to fit a boot mechanism. Mine only works the 4 doors. I'm going to study what Jeroen has done with interest!

Geoff

Fitment to right rear door
I had to remove the door catch mechanism to fit the linkage direct to that, then mount the solenoid down near the lower rear edge As per these photos - best I've got. Geoff (both sideways, first the right side is the top of the photo and left side of the second)

On another car I have a separate electric boot release, actuated by a touch button (nicked from a scrap Saab 9-3) mounted on the console side.

In the boot this translates to a "pull" solenoid attached via a bowden cable to the latch. It works regardless of whether the boot is locked with the key or unlocked. So you can leave it locked and still open the boot from inside the car. And in case of solenoid failure, you can still unlock and open the boot in the traditional manner.

Unfortunately I don't know who supplied this part as it was already fitted when I got the car, it just wasn't connected and didn't have a switch! I can take some pics if anyone is interested.

Steve

Yes please Steve. Would appreciate if you could post or PM some photos. Sounds the perfect solution. Geoff

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSAL-A ... 1873451043

Universal and worldwide for sale at different car accessoiry shops.

Jeroen

Here you go Geoff!










At the moment the cable is secured through a pre-existing hole low down on the operating arm. i'm going to drill a hole higher up and refine the fitting a bit, the solenoid has plenty enough throw to take up extra movement.

There is nothing at all in the way of writing on either solenoid or bracket, but it looks a bit aftermarket in design. But origin remains a mystery.




The Saab switch I found has a correct-ish picture!

HTH, Steve

soe8m wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 1:28 pm https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSAL-A ... 1873451043

Universal and worldwide for sale at different car accessoiry shops.

Jeroen

That's it all right, not cheap AND out of stock ATM!

But close to you Geoff!

Steve

EDIT, cheaper version on UK ebay @ £17.77, but you have to make your own bracket! Item number 233562265416.

Well after a lot of messing around finally got there rear doors lock




Just got to work out the electric windows now

Have a look at Mahesh's resto thread, (Newbie, I know the car deserved better?) I think there are pics there of how he did his leccy windows. If memory serves he used Transit motors which have roughly the same size gears as the originals and employed some clever microswitches activated by short throw movement of cut down original handles to operate them.

Steve

Carledo wrote: ↑Fri Jun 19, 2020 3:12 am Have a look at Mahesh's resto thread, (Newbie, I know the car deserved better?) I think there are pics there of how he did his leccy windows. If memory serves he used Transit motors which have roughly the same size gears as the originals and employed some clever microswitches activated by short throw movement of cut down original handles to operate them.

Steve

Steve

Ive looked at Maheshs resto thread , he didnt say which transit the motors came from , but from trial and error im almost there waiting on some bolts ive used transit Mk5 smile front model , still havent work out about the switches yet

Dave