The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi All,

My wonderful 1500HL has just failed its MOT... the list is pretty S****e so i'm not sure what to do. I use it at least twice a week to scoot about in.
I've just spent £500 having the Carbs fully restored (burlen ltd), installed a new Starter motor, fitted new gaskets to the exhaust inlet manifold etc etc, and have been busy cleaning the engine components and bay. small bits of rust here and there but nothing to worry about. The car drives beautifully, smooth and quick.

Looking at the MOT Major Defects and Advisories i'm concerned the cost to repair will far out way the value of the car (welding, suspension, track rod ball joints etc..) This said, im not sure of it's value...

So, what do you think? I've added some pictures of the car as it is now, and the MOT doc. And you can see alot more pictures, videos and details of the work that i've done on my Instagram account: colinwoods_is_me

Any and all comments would be greatly welcomed.

Thanks

I wouldn't call that much of an issue.

Most are cheap and easy to repair. The welding can probably done in situ by welding some plates in.

Jeroen

Thanks Jeroen!

That's making me feel alot better about the situation...

The more info and advice i get the more i'm inclined to keep the girl going.

Thanks again

Yeah, really the welding is the only issue.

Paging James! James to the white emergency-cill-repair courtesy phone please!

Can you do mechanical work yourself? Do you need guidance on the easier bits?

[edited to add] Just noticed the mileage, is that accurate or is she on her 2nd time around? Just curious, it has no bearing on the issues.

Thanks Tinweevil...

Yes, I can do most things but things like suspension etc are a new thing for me - never afraid to give it a go though.

Im pretty sure it must have been round the clock, although saying that, i do recall the seller mentioning something around a new engine in the 90's?

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area so inadequately repaired that control of the vehicle is likely to be adversely affected jacking point to wheel tub (5.3.6 (a) (ii))
Repair immediately (major defects):
Steering column has excessive movement up and down (2.2.2 (a))
Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive Max Limit 4.5% Actual Limit 8.576% (8.2.1.2 (b))
Offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged or deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))
Offside Front Upper Suspension component ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength subframe mount (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Brake hose excessively damaged (1.1.12 (b) (ii))
Offside Rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced (7.1.1 (a) (i))

So...
welding around the jacking point/seat belt mount etc - you need to find somebody to sort that unless you are ok with welding.
Exhaust emissions... give it an Italian tune up and tweak the carbs (or find an mot testing station that's a bit more classic friendly)
Brake hose, ball joint covers, spring etc, that's just bolt off/bolt on stuff mostly, not a big deal for a DIYer
Steering column? Not sure about that one.

The list look intimidating, but when you break it down I've seen/had worse!

As others have said, the welding is the only real issue, the steering column movement is most likely the result of a slipping grip washer on the column, push it back into place with a screwdriver and it'll be good for a few more years. The club sells track rod end and balljoint dust covers, no need to buy new balljoints.

The rest is just bits and pieces, the parts are cheap and available. I have any number of usable used rear coil springs here if you want one!

On emissions, i'd agree with Sam, find a more classic friendly garage, they'll either give it a tweak to squeeze it through then put it back after, or just let it go if it's not too far out of whack. But it does appear very rich from the figures, maybe needs a tune and balance on the carbs. Or mayvbe the choke is sticking a bit!

I'd offer my own services, but James is a LOT closer to you than I am!

Definitely saveable, good luck with it!

Steve

Wow, thanks guys. Great info there and thank you so much for dissipating my fears.

I'll start hunting for a welder as the garage wasn't really helpful on recommendations. i'd like to replace the suspension at some point anyways as the rear of the car squeaks when going over bumps.
Will try and look at replacing the dust covers myself and get the carbs tuned.

Like yorkshire_spam suggests... breaking it down should make it more workable. I just need to work on my patience now..

Thanks everyone.

I fail to see how corrosion in a nearside rear jacking point could cause issues with control of the vehicle???

If it is a rear seat belt mount, simplest solution is to remove the rear belts...though corrosion should be attended to before it gets worse!

The ball joint gaiters etc are £3 each!

I'd suggest excessive up/down movement in the steering column is a missing bulkhead bush; Superflex from Chris Witor: £10 or so.

As other have said, easy enough. You can literally swap the dust covers.

The only thing that would give me pause is the welding because my experience of cars, is once it has got so bad an MOT tester can see it, when you start digging into those areas you will find a ton of hidden rot.

Paint, underseal and various bits of sound proofing can hide a multitude of sins.

Thanks Cleverusername,

How very true... i've done a few (bodge) rust repairs on the drivers side door and the rear passenger pillar (underneath the leather/plastic covering) - looks good so far but i'm sure the rust will return - nature of the beast i guess.

With regards to the hidden demons in the chassis/frame... i'll bite the bullet if they turn up and do it bit by bit. Based on the comments here it seems its worth keeping the old girl going. She lives in a nice barn with other cars, the engine and components all work well and are super clean, she runs like a youthfull athlete and i can work at an easy pace there on the issues.. Piece by piece, little by little I will get it to pass it's MOT and give it many more years of life.

Thanks again

If you are able to take some photographs of the rusty areas that were picked up at the MoT it would help fellow owners to provide advice.

Thanks Richard.

Good idea. i'll get some pics done and upload

Hello everyone!

Post some pics of the rust Colin and I can advise.

James

colinwoods_uk wrote: ↑Fri Jun 12, 2020 10:16 am
How very true... i've done a few (bodge) rust repairs on the drivers side door and the rear passenger pillar (underneath the leather/plastic covering) - looks good so far but i'm sure the rust will return - nature of the beast i guess.

The door on the offside of mine were neglected and bodged. The passenger one had holes repaired with filler. By the time it bubbled through and I spotted it, it had got into the shell. A disaster, especially with offside passenger so hard to find.

In the end I had to fabricate repair sections for the passenger door shell and when I checked the drivers door, which look pretty much fine from the outside, half of the bottom of the shell had dissolved. I was only able to repair and save it because someone on ebay had cut up an old door shell and was selling off repair sections.

All this has taught me to catch rust early.