Jag V6 swapped Dolomite

[Carledo]

what radiator are you fitting, ive used a Saab 9-3 on mine

Did that fit ok between the front chassis legs? I'm looking for a new rad for my MX5 swapped one.. Using MG-F one currently and it's all a bit annoying..

Steve

Steve

It was a tight fit, but didn't have to cut anything to get the radiator to fit, i made offset brackets that pick up on the original mounts, and the Saab rad then fitted to those

Dave

I use the 9-3 rad on my Vauxhall converted cars, but mount them on bespoke mounts tailored to the rad rather than the car, apples and oranges though, that. You need a header tank (the ubiquitous Volvo one will do) and there is no provision in the rad for a fan sender switch. Apart from that, it's like Mary Poppins, "practically perfect in every way" and stands up to high fast running even in 30+ degree ambients like last Sunday.

Pic below shows it fitted to the Carledo with the inner and outer front panels removed for replacement, neither had to be cut in any way to get the rad in, but i've made the holes in the valance to facilitate better airflow.







Steve

[geeksteve]

Brilliant info! many thanks all.

Steve

[Boost All The Dollys]

Did that fit ok between the front chassis legs? I'm looking for a new rad for my MX5 swapped one.. Using MG-F one currently and it's all a bit annoying..

Steve

Steve

It was a tight fit, but didn't have to cut anything to get the radiator to fit, i made offset brackets that pick up on the original mounts, and the Saab rad then fitted to those

Dave

I use the 9-3 rad on my Vauxhall converted cars, but mount them on bespoke mounts tailored to the rad rather than the car, apples and oranges though, that. You need a header tank (the ubiquitous Volvo one will do) and there is no provision in the rad for a fan sender switch. Apart from that, it's like Mary Poppins, "practically perfect in every way" and stands up to high fast running even in 30+ degree ambients like last Sunday.

Steve

I’ll look at a 9-3 radiator next. I picked up a Yaris rad and an mx5 rad for now and the mx5 one is what I prefer going forward, only issue is that I welded in a strengthening member to the front of the cross member while I put the engine in and now it’s in the way of where I want the radiator to sit so I’ve got to sort that out next. I’m mainly using the mx5 rad as a text fit then go out and get an upgraded rad from Koyo or Mushimoto which will have plenty of capacity

Nice work, are you going to fit a rear anti role bar ? what radiator are you fitting, ive used a Saab 9-3 on mine

Dave

P.s also fitted Saab seats are were easy to fit

For the rear anti roll bar, I’m using the stock Dolomite one until
I work out a better solution. I’ve been thinking of swapping to an MX5 one for the front roll bar to get better mounting arrangement as I really don’t like how the Dolomite one mounts to the drag link.

[lazeruspete]

what radiator are you fitting, ive used a Saab 9-3 on mine

Did that fit ok between the front chassis legs? I'm looking for a new rad for my MX5 swapped one.. Using MG-F one currently and it's all a bit annoying..

Steve

Hi Steve,

radiator fitment, i think it looks great but somewhat exposed?

Pete

I use a Fiesta radiator and it fits nicely between in the front panel.

There's also a drawing!

[geeksteve]

Outlets need to be t'other way round for my application, useful info for others though.

[SprintV8]

I’m using the RX8 (Similar size I believe to the MX5) rad as it comes with twin fans and surround.
Will line up with the rotary engine.
Plus fits nicely between the Chassis rails.
I do also have a aftermarket Alloy rad which will be swapped over once brackets ETC done.

[Boost All The Dollys]

Autumn update

So, I’ve been quite busy over the last 3 months just with lots of little pieces which needed done.

Firstly, I got the Jaguar propshaft modified to suit the length and flanges on the diff. I went to D&F propshafts in Leeds, were wonderful and really helpful. It might be a touch too short but that’s my bad for getting the measurements wrong, it’ll still function properly. Now I just need to mount the centre bearing. The jag centre bearing flange sits about 1 inch back and 3 inch lower than the Dolomite bearing mounts. It’s closer to the slope behind the front seats than the mounts, so to make it simpler, I’m just going to mount it to just behind the front seats. That’s going to be done this week hopefully.

I’ve also been working on the brakes again. So on front, I’m using the brakes from an Fiesta ST150, roughly 275x24mm vented fronts. It’s similar to the Trackerjack set up, just bigger and uses newer calipers. On the rear, I was going to get a sierra brake kit but they were pretty expensive so I looked around and found that all modern fiesta ST rear brakes uses the same disc as the sierra rear discs, so very similar calipers. After getting my hands on an ST150 disc and a new ST caliper, I put them on and the work pretty well. Only issue is that the mounting flange for the caliper is half way between the faces of the mounting flange on the axle, but nothing a spacer can’t fix.

I’ve planned the exhaust routing as well. It’s quite the tight squeeze on the passenger side but for now, it’s the best I could come up with

[new to this]

What size wheels are you using ? not sprint ones, i went for rover 45 rear disc calipers, got any pictures off your rear disc set up ?

Thanks Dave

[Boost All The Dollys]

What size wheels are you using ? not sprint ones, i went for rover 45 rear disc calipers, got any pictures off your rear disc set up ?

Thanks Dave

15x6.5 et35. They’re pretty tight on the clearance in the rear arches, I’ve had to take the exhaust hanger off as the tyre was catching on the bolt.

I don’t have any pictures of the rear disc set up yet, only test mounted them for clearance. I don’t know how well it would translate onto a Dolomite sprint axle but I can have a look, I’ve still got my old axle about to measure up

[SprintV8]

Progress is Progress as they say.

What are you using to scan the engine bay.

[Boost All The Dollys]

Progress is Progress as they say.

What are you using to scan the engine bay.

Yeah, just slow but necessary progress

Im using an app on my iPhone. the newest ones have that LiDAR on the main camera but the last few have a form of LiDAR on the front facing camera for the faceID. There’s a few apps that use it but the one I found to be the best is ScandyPro. It’s free to use but you have to pay to save more than one scan a week but it’s only £5 a month for unlimited saves. It’s a bit finicky to use cos you’ve got to both look at the screen but point the camera at the thing you want to scan so it takes a bit of getting used to but the scans are pretty good, been really useful for stuff like the exhausts and for making bend profiles for patch pieces.

[Boost All The Dollys]

November update

Feels like forever since I posted an update but I’ve got a good bit done recently.

Exhaust manifolds are on their way. Spent far far far too long fussing over the design to meet my own ridiculous demands but I finally got a layout I was happy with. they’re equal length (hopefully) so should sounds good once they’re finished. Done a quick test fit of the drivers side set and the only issue was a clash with braces I’d put on to support the runners and a brace I’d put on the car so got to cut them out. And test fit again before I fully weld them up.

The passenger side header is what I’m more concerned about, as I stupidly didn’t order enough bends to finish it so I’m one bend off oh well, love and learn. Can’t wait to hear it with these on.



Some other work I’ve been on with is the propshaft bearing support. Made one up but it doesn’t quite fit how I’d like so back to the drawing board. I decided to not use the existing mount into points as they were quite far from the bearing mount so decided to attach it to the floor just behind the front seats.

I’ve also been on with the gear linkage. I printed out some mock ups which worked quite well so began fabing up a mount. This didn’t end up working so switched to just using a spherical bearing bolted to the gearbox tunnel. I’ve had to fill the hole for the old gearstick and trim some of it away. It gives a pretty good location and feel so should be good for now.

[Boost All The Dollys]

May 2023 update

Jesus, it’s been a while since I posted anything about this. I’ve been hella busy with life outside of Dolomites as well as having many issues with the parts I’m making.

So, I’ve finally finished one set of manifolds; the drivers side. This side wasn’t hard, I was just putting off the last step for a few months. Bolts up perfectly and clears everything on the engine, just need to refit the engine to test it in the car but from the previous test fit, it won’t be an issue.

Now onto the bigger mini-project, the sump.

Because of the shape of the Jaguar sump, I couldn’t use it. It was narrow and had a large section sticking out in front of the engine, right where the front anti roll bar would need to go. So rather than modify the Jag sump, I made my own (because clearly I hate myself). Got it all drawn up in the computer using some scans I took of the sump as a guide, printed out the templates and got it all welded up. Only issue was some of the holes I drilled were slightly off but other than that, fitted perfectly. It’s now sat getting leak tested for the 4th time by filling it with water.




Not long to go till I can put the engine back in and finish the rest of the exhaust

[Boost All The Dollys]

Got the sump and Drivers Side exhaust fitted to the engine, now need to fit the lot into the car

[jackharper]

Looks great! Is the sump baffled at all? Did you have to move the oil pickup?