Hi everyone,
I'm in the process of replacing the ball joints / track rod ends and suspension bushes on my car and have realised the subframe is rather battered, possibly distorted. Initially I thought it was just poor jack positioning by previous owners but the subframe seems to have taken a side impact where the offside lower mounting bracket bolt goes. It lines up ok but it feels like this could affect the steering geometry if it's out. Does anyone have a precise measurements of the distances between the mounting bracket holes so I can compare by any chance? If it's distorted I guess I am looking at removing the subframe which is not something I'd relish as I have limited space in front of the car and it's currently on axle stands.
Any thoughts and advice gratefully received. Thank you.
I had corrosion problems on this area on my subframe but because I was in the middle of a rebuild I obtained a solid used frame. The lower bolt on mine would not tighten fully causing alarming handling, inside the box section on mine was a triangular piece of steel to stop the box from collapsing but mine was exposed and weakened due to rust, yours looks more solid than mine was but a welded repair has to be top notch . On saying that is it allowed for an mot I am not sure.
I have a measurement of 585mm between the inner of the two suspension brackets if that makes any sense. They just sit below the bottom of the subframe . Hope that helps and makes some sense.
Thanks for your feedback, Ron1966 offered the magic figure so I'll measure the distance between the brackets on my subframe and hope it's 585mm! You also make a good point about MOT, the subframe has been like this since my bought it and the wonkiness has never been mentioned in an MOT. I guess the only way to know if the geometry is affected is to get this checked after its all settled down.
Thanks for your help all. I'll come back if I need to get the subframe off and can't get the bolts off!
There was, for many years, a (largely unwritten I think) rule that subframe repairs, particularly REAR subframe repairs, were not acceptable for MOT on Minis and 11/1300s (ADO16s) But I never heard of it being objected to on any other make/model. I've repaired frames on Dolomites, Cavaliers, Kas, Fiestas and a couple of different Fiats over the years and had the repairs accepted without comment on retest.
I think testers just got sick of substandard/bodged subframe repairs on old Minis etc and started a blanket ban on plating them. They aren't the easiest thing to fix properly, even on the floor, which most customers wished to avoid because of the cost and extra body welding to subframe mounts that inevitably ensued when removing the rear subframe!
It was a can of (tin) worms nobody wanted to open on a near-end-of-life Mini worth next to nothing in those days and doubtless sounded the death knell of many thousands of Minis and almost ALL the ADO16s!
It wasn't till the early 80s that MiG welding brought safe, cost efficient weld repairs into reach of the average Joe, by then, it was too late for the ADO16 and quite a few other models too (Anglia and MkI-III Cortina spring to mind)
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
you can weld a subframe as long as the repair metal is of the same or greater gauge, the welding must be continuous seam welded to 'good metal'
and its must has a negative effect of handling or steering.
Some people are like Slinky's, they serve no real purpose in life but bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.
