Clutch Slave cylinder inspection hole

[sm519193]

Hi all

I know there's quite a few of you that have already done an inspection hole for all the clutch woes, bleeding/adjustment etc
How did you find exactly where to cut the hole, I don't want to make a mess and get it in the wrong place, anyone got a pic of where they placed theirs?

Here is what I have at the moment


and here is my heath-robinson attempt at finding out where to place the hole, not sure I trust it though!



Ta

[Mad Mart]

This is what I did on PKN Steve...








A bit rough & ready but it was fine.

[sm519193]

Great thanks Martin

I can see you went up to the seam.
I have got the master cylinder out, everything was well corroded, looking to replace it all and then go to DOT5, the issue I see is the wear on slave and master ends of the hole where the PJ8808 clevis pin goes through, you don't seem to be able to get this part.



I know people have welded and redrilled, but if you order a new one you get this


No end on it!, do I open it up and put my one in? or get one of these

What does everyone else do when replacing the master cylinder or Slave

[xvivalve]

Templates here:

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=37580

Why buy a new aftermarket master cylinder when as a Club member you could get an exchange unit that has been sleeved in stainless steel for longevity, though if you do go this route do not use DoT5 as the reconditioners use OE seals than can swell and seize with DoT5

[new to this]

Great thanks Martin

I can see you went up to the seam.
I have got the master cylinder out, everything was well corroded, looking to replace it all and then go to DOT5, the issue I see is the wear on slave and master ends of the hole where the PJ8808 clevis pin goes through, you don't seem to be able to get this part.



I know people have welded and redrilled, but if you order a new one you get this


No end on it!, do I open it up and put my one in? or get one of these

What does everyone else do when replacing the master cylinder or Slave

DOT 5 is silicon brake fluid, where DOT 5.1 is ordinary brake fluid with a higher boiling point

[sm519193]

Thanks Alun, Templates I'm ok with it was the positioning that I was more concerned with.

Martin sent me his pic and from that I can get a rough idea of where to cut, but if I want to be a bit more on the money if there are any other pics of the position of the hole I'd be grateful.
Going back to the master cylinder, I agree that an exchange unit from the club would be preferable, but does that come with this? because that's what I would need as well



Also, your comment about "do not use DoT5 as the reconditioners use OE seals than can swell and seize with DoT5" I have no idea what an OE seal is and why it should swell
I have already done the same on my Vitesse converted to DOT5, and that was because of the corrosion was rife, and when I looked at the sprint it was even worse.
That said I am more than happy to listen to alternatives.

And I still can't work out if you buy the new master from outside the club what I am supposed to do with this bit, take it out and replace with my original that has the elongated hole!


Fixing the worn part of the hole seems to be the answer I am coming up with, maybe getting someone to weld it for me or looking for some brass bushes that fit but that's a long shot...

[sm519193]

Ok so it seems there's alternatives out there you just have to know what you are looking for
Something like this seems to be an option, i'll keep looking but I might give that a whirl

[xvivalve]

Ted's templates are shaped to fit snuggly into the corner of the transmission tunnel and are therefore self locating.

OE is original equipment, a different rubber compound was used to currently produced seal kits which can have random incompatibility with silicon fluid; the recommendation not to use silicon comes from the reconditioners.

The exchange units from the Club currently come with the forked push rod and we demand a pushrod being sent with the return unit. We currently select the best rods for the units we send out.

As well as welding and redrilling, I have seen washers welded over the fork ends as an easier way of getting the hole precisely correct.