This photo shows the sub frame trolley with three support blocks sitting on the deck.
- 20210902-7256Ptf Sub frame trolly.jpg (240.88 KiB) Viewed 573 times
The intermediate block, 100mm high, is only required when it becomes necessary to split the clutch and gearbox off the engine itself.
I followed the steps outlined detailed below when I needed to check the clutch on my Toledo recently.
It was not necessary to remove the gearbox tunnel cover. I removed the tunnel carpet, removed the grommet around the gear lever and reached down and rotated the cup holding the gear lever itself and then left the lever connected to the selector rod.
- 20221003-2414Ptf KKJ 5 Gearlever.jpg (241.33 KiB) Viewed 573 times
I removed only the air cleaner from the engine and removed nothing else in the engine bay.
It was necessary part way through the procedure to go under the car to disconnect the prop shaft at the back of the gearbox and split the exhaust. In my case I had to cut the exhaust for someone had fitted a replacement fully welded exhaust at some stage. It was cut and a sleeve and clamps fitted when it was reconnected.
The sequence was as follows. I lifted the car up onto 4 homemade dollies so that the car could be moved around in the workshop area. Then having disconnected the fuel line, electrics and hoses to the radiator and heater, uncoupled the choke, accelerator, removed the three bolts holding the steering column intermediate shaft and brake vacuum hose it was time to position the car under the hoist.
The car, sitting on four dollies, is 120mm off the floor. The car was pushed back under a roof beam to which is attached a chain hoist. The manipulation of the hoisting chain is all done from the front of the car.
The hoist is attached to a spreader bar which is connected to two simple little lugs which are bolted under two of the top bolts on the shock absorber/spring mounts.
The next step was to lift the car and remove the front wheels and remove the two dollies on which the wheels sat. The sub frame trolley was pushed into position.
While the whole car was up in the air, I slid underneath the car and unbolted the prop shaft off the gearbox flange.
Then the car was lowered back onto the sub frame trolley, the deck of which was 230mm from the floor. The front cross member of the sub frame was supported on a 130mm block and the back gearbox end on a 100mm block, both sitting on the sub frame trolley deck.
The flexible brake hoses were disconnected and the brake fluid drained out of the reservoir. I am a firm believer that brake fluid should be changed on a regular basis so I had no qualms about sacrificing the existing brake fluid. The bottom shock absorber mounts were loosened along with the two other bolts which are attached to the top swivel joint.
The sub frame bolts, were easily undone using an impact wrench which rattled off the four nuts.
Then the body was lifted about 20mm and the bolts holding the lower shock absorber mount slid out.
The body was lifted another 30mm and the steering intermediate shaft which had been unbolted and freed up at the same time as all the engine services were disconnected, dropped clear of the steering rack.
The body was lifted another 300mm and unbolted and the gear lever disconnected from the selector rod. At the same time the clutch slave cylinder was unbolted and swung out of the way and the speedo drive disconnected. The exhaust was disconnected and it was at this point I had to cut mine.
- 20221002-7548Ptf KKJ 5 lowering the body.jpg (207.09 KiB) Viewed 573 times
Then it was a simple matter of splitting the bell housing away from the engine and repairing the clutch while it was sitting as can be seen here.
- 20220922-2409Ptf Toledo 1500.jpg (243.21 KiB) Viewed 573 times
For this exercise I left the body hanging on the chain hoist while the clutch repairs were undertaken and simply reversed the procedure when the engine and sub frame were returned to the car.
The car, when hoisted high enough to wheel the sub frame assembly in and out under the car, sits at its highest point 1700mm off the floor. Not very high at all.
This technique mirrors to a large extent the procedures used during the production line assembly of the car where the engine and engine bay were fully dressed before they were brought together.
This is a simple one man procedure and the quickest removal I undertook some years ago took me no longer than 40 minutes. I now allow myself a couple of hours to remove the engine assembly and a similar amount of time to reinstall it. Bleeding the brakes takes additional time.
Robert
