ball joint
ball joint
mornin!<br>
fitted the ball joint yesterday (2 hrs<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) but went to do up the nylock nut on the tie rod end and wouldnt do up (i think i may have damaged the thread on the tie rod thingumajig) <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START >: --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/mad.gif ALT=">:"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> now what are my options<br>
1. new tie rod end<br>
2. get bit re-threaded<br>
whaddaya reckon folks<br>
cheers<br>
neal
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fitted the ball joint yesterday (2 hrs<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) but went to do up the nylock nut on the tie rod end and wouldnt do up (i think i may have damaged the thread on the tie rod thingumajig) <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START >: --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/mad.gif ALT=">:"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> now what are my options<br>
1. new tie rod end<br>
2. get bit re-threaded<br>
whaddaya reckon folks<br>
cheers<br>
neal
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Re: ball joint
What you are probably experiencing is very common when trying to refit items which have been used before in that when you do up the nylock when it reaches the nylon bit the resistance met is greater than the resistance betwen ball and socket in the tie rod and therefore the whole assembly spins rather than the nut tightening.<br>
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If you are lucky and have a pair of thin nosed pliers and good grip you can hold the shank of the threaded bit whilst the initial 'bite' into the nylock takes place. I have a clamp from an old anglepoise lamp (from which I have removed the spreader plate bit) which I also use to clamp the length of the threaded bit in effect pushing the ball into the socket whilst I use an open ended spanner to tighten the nut.<br>
<br>
You could also use a bolt of the same thread to 'work' the nylock to put a good register of thread into it.<br>
<br>
If you have destroyed the thread (because you smacked it with a hammer?) then a thread file will usually recreate sufficient thread, but probably enough forthe scenario outlined above to kick in!!<br>
<br>
My local factors still supply track rod ends at about £9 each
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<br>
If you are lucky and have a pair of thin nosed pliers and good grip you can hold the shank of the threaded bit whilst the initial 'bite' into the nylock takes place. I have a clamp from an old anglepoise lamp (from which I have removed the spreader plate bit) which I also use to clamp the length of the threaded bit in effect pushing the ball into the socket whilst I use an open ended spanner to tighten the nut.<br>
<br>
You could also use a bolt of the same thread to 'work' the nylock to put a good register of thread into it.<br>
<br>
If you have destroyed the thread (because you smacked it with a hammer?) then a thread file will usually recreate sufficient thread, but probably enough forthe scenario outlined above to kick in!!<br>
<br>
My local factors still supply track rod ends at about £9 each
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- Posts: 1311
- Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:28 pm
Track rod end?
This the bit u mean? Tapered shaft spinning and nu not doing up is very common...<br>
I have a number of methods. Place suitable wooden buffer under ball joint and whack it home so that tapered bit bites enough. <br>
Or place jack under ball joint and use to force taper in to same degree...<br>
Use G calmp to force ball joint tapered pin in to hole. <br>
As Alun says you can use a suitable bolt to soften up the new nyloc nut first.<br>
<br>
Nine quid Alun? You get cars for less....<br>
<br>
Jonners<br>
<br>
<br>
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I have a number of methods. Place suitable wooden buffer under ball joint and whack it home so that tapered bit bites enough. <br>
Or place jack under ball joint and use to force taper in to same degree...<br>
Use G calmp to force ball joint tapered pin in to hole. <br>
As Alun says you can use a suitable bolt to soften up the new nyloc nut first.<br>
<br>
Nine quid Alun? You get cars for less....<br>
<br>
Jonners<br>
<br>
<br>
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Nine quid...
....maybe, but a ball joint doesn't cost me £64 and all day to fetch!!
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Jacking
I tend to use a jack too, just to nip the taper up enough to wind the bolt on - Works every time <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Don't other track rod ends fit? I'm thinking Mini ones, which used to be dirt cheap, don't know if they still are?<br>
<br>
Only 3 of my Triumph purchases have been less than 9 quid...
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Don't other track rod ends fit? I'm thinking Mini ones, which used to be dirt cheap, don't know if they still are?<br>
<br>
Only 3 of my Triumph purchases have been less than 9 quid...
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- Posts: 50
- Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2003 2:59 am
Tie Rod end
Use a plain nut to pull it tight into the taper, then undo it and refit the Nyloc nut.
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Re: Ball Joint
I use a size 6 hammer myself, hit the ball joint with the hammer in one hand whilst doing the nut up with a spanner in the other.. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> (just kidding). I think Stephen gets the prize for the easiest solution.<br>
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Alun, I see you won that other bottom ball joint. I was going to bid on it but was on my way home from work when it finished. Still, I got the other one. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Martin
<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.aqpd91.dsl.pipex.com/" target="top">Mad Mart's Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>
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Alun, I see you won that other bottom ball joint. I was going to bid on it but was on my way home from work when it finished. Still, I got the other one. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Martin
<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.aqpd91.dsl.pipex.com/" target="top">Mad Mart's Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>
Re: Ball Joint
I already have a spare; and I shouldn't be greedy. If you are desperate for one it was £20 including the postage; send me a cheque to cover it and I'll get the vendor to send it direct to you - just let me know pdq so I can do the necessary with checkout etc
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Re: Ball Joint
As I said, I got the other one that was on ebay. Same side. Don't need another. I was just snapping them up as they were going cheap.<br>
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Thanks for the offer Alun.<br>
<br>
Martin
<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.aqpd91.dsl.pipex.com/" target="top">Mad Mart's Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>
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Thanks for the offer Alun.<br>
<br>
Martin
<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.aqpd91.dsl.pipex.com/" target="top">Mad Mart's Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>
balljoint/steering rod thingy
cheers gents will attempt to fit soon<br>
many thanks for all replies<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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many thanks for all replies<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->
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