ball joint

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beally
Posts: 77
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 12:39 pm

ball joint

#1 Post by beally » Tue Feb 10, 2004 8:57 am

mornin!<br>
fitted the ball joint yesterday (2 hrs<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) but went to do up the nylock nut on the tie rod end and wouldnt do up (i think i may have damaged the thread on the tie rod thingumajig) <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START >: --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/mad.gif ALT=">:"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> now what are my options<br>
1. new tie rod end<br>
2. get bit re-threaded<br>
whaddaya reckon folks<br>
cheers<br>
neal

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alun n
Posts: 2404
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:41 pm

Re: ball joint

#2 Post by alun n » Tue Feb 10, 2004 10:25 am

What you are probably experiencing is very common when trying to refit items which have been used before in that when you do up the nylock when it reaches the nylon bit the resistance met is greater than the resistance betwen ball and socket in the tie rod and therefore the whole assembly spins rather than the nut tightening.<br>
<br>
If you are lucky and have a pair of thin nosed pliers and good grip you can hold the shank of the threaded bit whilst the initial 'bite' into the nylock takes place. I have a clamp from an old anglepoise lamp (from which I have removed the spreader plate bit) which I also use to clamp the length of the threaded bit in effect pushing the ball into the socket whilst I use an open ended spanner to tighten the nut.<br>
<br>
You could also use a bolt of the same thread to 'work' the nylock to put a good register of thread into it.<br>
<br>
If you have destroyed the thread (because you smacked it with a hammer?) then a thread file will usually recreate sufficient thread, but probably enough forthe scenario outlined above to kick in!!<br>
<br>
My local factors still supply track rod ends at about £9 each

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Jon Tilson
Posts: 1311
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:28 pm

Track rod end?

#3 Post by Jon Tilson » Tue Feb 10, 2004 10:44 am

This the bit u mean? Tapered shaft spinning and nu not doing up is very common...<br>
I have a number of methods. Place suitable wooden buffer under ball joint and whack it home so that tapered bit bites enough. <br>
Or place jack under ball joint and use to force taper in to same degree...<br>
Use G calmp to force ball joint tapered pin in to hole. <br>
As Alun says you can use a suitable bolt to soften up the new nyloc nut first.<br>
<br>
Nine quid Alun? You get cars for less....<br>
<br>
Jonners<br>
<br>
<br>


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alun n
Posts: 2404
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:41 pm

Nine quid...

#4 Post by alun n » Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:06 am

....maybe, but a ball joint doesn't cost me £64 and all day to fetch!!

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Silvery
Posts: 422
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 6:37 pm

Jacking

#5 Post by Silvery » Tue Feb 10, 2004 2:44 pm

I tend to use a jack too, just to nip the taper up enough to wind the bolt on - Works every time <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Don't other track rod ends fit? I'm thinking Mini ones, which used to be dirt cheap, don't know if they still are?<br>
<br>
Only 3 of my Triumph purchases have been less than 9 quid...

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Stephen Grellet
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2003 2:59 am

Tie Rod end

#6 Post by Stephen Grellet » Tue Feb 10, 2004 8:42 pm

Use a plain nut to pull it tight into the taper, then undo it and refit the Nyloc nut.

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MaddMart
Posts: 1154
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:35 pm

Re: Ball Joint

#7 Post by MaddMart » Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:34 pm

I use a size 6 hammer myself, hit the ball joint with the hammer in one hand whilst doing the nut up with a spanner in the other.. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> (just kidding). I think Stephen gets the prize for the easiest solution.<br>
<br>
Alun, I see you won that other bottom ball joint. I was going to bid on it but was on my way home from work when it finished. Still, I got the other one. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Martin

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.aqpd91.dsl.pipex.com/" target="top">Mad Mart's Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

alun n
Posts: 2404
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:41 pm

Re: Ball Joint

#8 Post by alun n » Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:37 pm

I already have a spare; and I shouldn't be greedy. If you are desperate for one it was £20 including the postage; send me a cheque to cover it and I'll get the vendor to send it direct to you - just let me know pdq so I can do the necessary with checkout etc

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MaddMart
Posts: 1154
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:35 pm

Re: Ball Joint

#9 Post by MaddMart » Wed Feb 11, 2004 12:35 am

As I said, I got the other one that was on ebay. Same side. Don't need another. I was just snapping them up as they were going cheap.<br>
<br>
Thanks for the offer Alun.<br>
<br>
Martin

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.aqpd91.dsl.pipex.com/" target="top">Mad Mart's Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

beally
Posts: 77
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 12:39 pm

balljoint/steering rod thingy

#10 Post by beally » Wed Feb 11, 2004 10:27 am

cheers gents will attempt to fit soon<br>
many thanks for all replies<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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