Oil coolers

[rich]

thats it " sold to the man with the vermillion sprint "<br>
<br>
if its good enough for ralli art then its good enough for me, but what kind of money do you think a system with all the pipes an every thing would cost ???

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[dollyboy]

mr graeme - will pm you but will need lengths of hydraulic hoses req'd. hoses come with 3/8 bsp female connectors, either straight or 90 deg. ends. DC60 has (or can have) 3/8 females for oil and 22mm or 28mm for water. unions are male-male<br>
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mr blacksprint - i think ive met you or at least seen your car at himley last year, stainless tanks etc? nice work...<br>
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mr speedy - im with you here, orange will possibly be test beast for this set up, be at this stage over winter probably.<br>
<br>
scott - oil temp gauge will happen on orange<br>
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all - thanks for input, we'll see what happens...<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>

[tinweevil]

Agree with DailySprinter. <br>
Blue had the same rad for the 14+ years I've had it 'till recently. Everything engine wise is in pretty good nick and it never, ever went over a needles width past half in this country. Varied from just under to just over with the 1/2 mark always covered winter to summer. Only time I needed auxillary cooling was in traffic round Paris last year in high 30s C, well loaded and pulling a trailer. So this year in anticpation of towing a trailer to La Sarthe again I fitted a new rad. Guage range is now 1/4 to 1/4 and a tiny bit. I'm considering putting a <!--EZCODE ITALIC START--><em>higher</em><!--EZCODE ITALIC END--> temp stat in. How often do you hear that suggested for a sprint?<br>
<br>
Julian<br>


<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley. - Current daily drive.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, really quite tidy.</p><i></i>

[dollyboy]

I am listening to those who think it not necessary, but personal viewpoint is that better to have and not need than need and not have, and also reckon for me personally given it all needs to be put together anyway, why not??<br>
<br>
ok, rather than pm everyone with prices, can do 'trade dolly deal' as follows:<br>
<br>
DC60 cooler approx £45<br>
hoses (2 required) approx £8-10 each<br>
unions (4 required) approx £2 each <br>
<br>
all plus postage & vat, available from stock (unless hoses need to be made up).<br>
<br>
stock hoses are 18" long.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>


<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>

[Leeroy ORG 27R]

Dollyboy, what are the hoses made from, are they stainless convoluted with overbraiding. If so, what would you say was "a set" for a sprint, and how much?

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[tinweevil]

It's worth having and not needed provided you don't overcool your oil. You don't have a thermostat in your bits list which I'd strongly recommend for an air setup. With your watercooled plan you should check the spec of oil cooler stats and compare to water stats. If it don't get to the right temp you wont evaporate off the condensation and the oil wont do it's job right. You will get condensation in your oil, thats not a slur on your engine build - 1 litre of fuel burned produces 1 litre of water and there will always be some ring blow by. Water is not a good lubricant - bye bye bottom end.<br>
<br>
Julian

<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley. - Current daily drive.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, really quite tidy.</p><i></i>

[mr speedy]

Kev; Not sure yet on whether 3/8" or 1/2" would be better for flow rates of oil. To much restriction will artificially raise the oil pressure whilst actually starving the bottom end. Need to check. <br>
Regarding over cooling;<br>
You can either use a thermostat in the oil lines with a by-pass arrangment or you can fit the oil cooler in the TOP hose on the return to the radiator. That way the oil will be running at the same temp as the coolant. ie. 82-88 deg.<br>
<br>
P.S. Kev; Why are my coolers more expensive than that?

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[dollyboy]

<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
they're not, thats about trade I think?!<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :o --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT=":o"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>


<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i></i>

[Mike L Taylor]

There's been a bit of healthy discussion on the fitting of oil coolers (or more specifically "dollyboys" goodies) but the result for me is that I now need to sit and think whether to fit the cooler. There are now a lot more variables to take into account, such as temperature of oil, winter driving, hose content and thickness, thermostats blah blah... Thanks for the pointers.<br>
<br>
Mike

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[dollyboy]

blimey... took me a while to dig this one out!<br>
<br>
anyway... just had lengthy discussion with RADTEC about the best way forward. I've just ordered an uprated alloy rad with thermostat sender built in, spal fan, and sandwich block for oil cooler.<br>
<br>
they've used bowman water cooled oil coolers for race cars and reckon these are the better way to go, even though they've lost my order for an air cooled one. <br>
<br>
this is good, coz it shows they're technical people with emphasis on the best technical solution for the job. main advantage, particularly in the cold is that you're warming up the oil quicker and keeping the oil at close to optimum temp.<br>
<br>
anyway... bowman DC90 for me...<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>project orange - slow progress<br>
project black - coming on, could be sold...<br>
project white - pimp my tolly, next year!</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... ollyboy</A> at: 13/9/06 2:09 pm<br></i>

[ecurie]

Sounds interesting.<br>
What's the cost ?<br>
<br>
Benoit

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[mbellinger]

It has been said before, but if you go with the conversion to Volvo 740 radiator as some have done, you can get the 740 Turbo rad which has a very neat and effective oil cooler built in. You just have to use the Volvo unions as from memory they are a unique thread.<br>
<br>
Agree with others wholeheartedly regarding the value of oil temp gauges and oil stats.

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
1975 Triumph 1500TC Auto<br>
1989 Honda Civic 1300 Auto<br>
2006 Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Auto<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>

[dollyboy]

radtec uprated aluminium radiator with more rows/columns/fins than standard but comes the same overall size as standard, fittings in same place etc, go here: <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.radtec.co.uk/gallery.php?cat ... <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br>
<br>
£280 ex vat<br>
<br>
other bits not sure of price but they're on the website somewhere.<br>
<br>
Im sure I put price of oil cooler somewhere further up the thread, we stock these, we as in 'Marine Mart', with either 3/8 or 1/4 bsp oil fittings (we also keep male-male unioins to suit) and 22/28mm water fittings. im going for the DC90 (9") because... why not?! the DC60 (6") should do, but my oil capacity isnt far off twice the standard due to mod'd sump.<br>
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the oil cooler is brass, so will polish up a treat for the bling blingers!<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6 ... BauXDdm3Y6" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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edit PS - just to confuse scott, you dont need to trim anything, this can go anywhere convenient, the pic is a DC90, length is approx 9" for an idea of scale and it doesnt need airflow to cool it.<br>
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edit 2 PPS - scotts folowing post is obviously about the volvo mod, my solution is suitable for any set up, much neater and the way to go. no risk of overcooling/condensation or anything like that as per (julian I think) posted before. job done.

<p>project orange - gradual progress<br>
project STEALTH - PASS!!! <br>
project white - AAARGGGHHH!!! too many cars!!!</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... ollyboy</A> at: 13/9/06 6:21 pm<br></i>

[Carsreunited]

You need to trim the valance to get one in though. I wouldn't recommend it unless you are willing to do that.<br>
<br>


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