Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
At a race meeting last Sunday I had yet another rear suspension arm failure. But this time it was not the normal failure by fatigue cracking, (I have had a few fail over the years), this time the rear arm collapsed, ie buckled with no warning.
Several years ago I had a rear suspension arm crack and fold up while racing. It was replaced and the other arm inspected with nil defects evident. The next meeting the arm on the other side also failed. My feeling have always been this is a result of fatigue, magnified by polyurethane bushes and motor racing stresses.
The latest failure has not cracked.
As you can see it has bent.
I clipped a ripple strip (curb) with the right hand side wheels which jumped the car in the air, and on touch down the left hand arm collapsed. It seems strange, as it appears that the arm just could not take the load from the compressing spring and body weight. This car is lighter than the previous (white) car and the spring and shocks are of similar setup. Other people that I know (including my brother Philip) have never had rear arms fail in 10 or 20 years of racing yet this arm that failed had only been on this car for 6 race meeting. Yet again I seem to find weaknesses in the cars that no one else seems to find.
Anyone else had a failure like this?
Mark
Several years ago I had a rear suspension arm crack and fold up while racing. It was replaced and the other arm inspected with nil defects evident. The next meeting the arm on the other side also failed. My feeling have always been this is a result of fatigue, magnified by polyurethane bushes and motor racing stresses.
The latest failure has not cracked.
As you can see it has bent.
I clipped a ripple strip (curb) with the right hand side wheels which jumped the car in the air, and on touch down the left hand arm collapsed. It seems strange, as it appears that the arm just could not take the load from the compressing spring and body weight. This car is lighter than the previous (white) car and the spring and shocks are of similar setup. Other people that I know (including my brother Philip) have never had rear arms fail in 10 or 20 years of racing yet this arm that failed had only been on this car for 6 race meeting. Yet again I seem to find weaknesses in the cars that no one else seems to find.
Anyone else had a failure like this?
Mark
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
IIRC (and to be fair it was probably either you or Phil that noticed this) the problem with these is that they have to flex when the suspension gets an asymmetric load (i.e. goes over a bump on one side only) and the stiffer the bushes are, the more of the movement has to be in the metal of the arm.
I suppose any flex in the mounting points at all would be enough to stop the arms having to bend. I guess that that flexing would be affected by the way the back end of the passenger cabin is braced with a rollcage/bulkhead. Is yours done any different to other peoples' cars?
I suppose any flex in the mounting points at all would be enough to stop the arms having to bend. I guess that that flexing would be affected by the way the back end of the passenger cabin is braced with a rollcage/bulkhead. Is yours done any different to other peoples' cars?
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
I know someone who has had several of these fail on rally cars, they usually crack and split in the same place yours has folded. His suggested solution was to either run softer bushes to stop the metal having to flex, or to weld a bar through the folded channel, effectively extending it to the end of the arm.
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
I have hed these fail on my car
The only solution was to weld a plate across the full length and then get it to wrap around the back,
You then have to cut the hole out for the shock to go through but you still have metal left around the shock hole
I didnt take any pickys as i never used to bother
But i hope you know what i mean
These arms are all quite old now so there may be stress fractures that cannot be seen
By the naked eye
Could you not make new ones with tube ( if race regs allow)
The only solution was to weld a plate across the full length and then get it to wrap around the back,
You then have to cut the hole out for the shock to go through but you still have metal left around the shock hole
I didnt take any pickys as i never used to bother
But i hope you know what i mean

These arms are all quite old now so there may be stress fractures that cannot be seen
By the naked eye
Could you not make new ones with tube ( if race regs allow)
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
something likeDF wrote:But i hope you know what i mean

Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
Hello, read your homologation form.
DF did make the only and best solution and it was done also by special tuning on the rallycars and it is homologated.
Jeroen Rothman
DF did make the only and best solution and it was done also by special tuning on the rallycars and it is homologated.
Jeroen Rothman
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
I like photo Jjeroensprint wrote:Hello, read your homologation form.
DF did make the only and best solution and it was done also by special tuning on the rallycars and it is homologated.
Jeroen Rothman
Have you got a better picky of the front suspension strengthening plates ?
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
No, this is it or i have to scan the originals.DF wrote:I like photo Jjeroensprint wrote:Hello, read your homologation form.
DF did make the only and best solution and it was done also by special tuning on the rallycars and it is homologated.
Jeroen Rothman
Have you got a better picky of the front suspension strengthening plates ?
I have also anotherone like i have on my cars
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
This is exactly what I am thinking.Nick C wrote:I know someone who has had several of these fail on rally cars, they usually crack and split in the same place yours has folded. His suggested solution was to either run softer bushes to stop the metal having to flex, or to weld a bar through the folded channel, effectively extending it to the end of the arm.
My previous failures have been cracking, which we believe is caused from the continual flexing of the arm during cornering. The diff stays on the ground (or should) but the body rolls, therefore the arms must flex.
Many years ago I tried strenghtening the arms by "boxing" them, ie plating the top face. Unfortunately I just did not like the change in handling that this caused. The arms then failed to flex which meant that during cornering I could not keep the inside rear wheel on the ground. With an open diff it suffered from extreme traction problems. With an LSD it should not be as bad, but I prefer to keep as many wheels on the ground as possible. The other concern is the amount of load at the body attachment bracket, we already have problems with cracking here. If the arms don't flex during cornering the body mount will try and take up the load.DF wrote:I have hed these fail on my car
The only solution was to weld a plate across the full length and then get it to wrap around the back,
You then have to cut the hole out for the shock to go through but you still have metal left around the shock hole
I didnt take any pickys as i never used to bother
But i hope you know what i mean
These arms are all quite old now so there may be stress fractures that cannot be seen
By the naked eye
Could you not make new ones with tube ( if race regs allow)
On a rally car on soft surface this might no be as big as problem.
Many years ago I had one of these ST front suspension items, from memory it was, a standard mount bracket with a plate welded across the top above the pivot tube.DF wrote:I like photo Jjeroensprint wrote:Hello, read your homologation form.
DF did make the only and best solution and it was done also by special tuning on the rallycars and it is homologated.
Jeroen Rothman
Have you got a better picky of the front suspension strengthening plates ?
Yes, but is body mounted and attached to the axle tubes, not the suspension arms.eightiesflamer wrote:Mark
Do you run the rear anti roll bar
At this point in time my thoughts are to just plate the area around the shock attachmentment area. The object will be to strengthen arm at the weak point, but still allowing it to flex during cornering.
It might have just been a one off failure, but I am not convinced.
Mark
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
I have strengthend where the arm bolts to the body by using an angle iron which is bolted through using the original suspension arm bolt and then its bolted with two bolts straight forward to the body
I used to get cracking at this point
Not any more
600 hp and drag radials dont bother them now

I can nearly lift the front wheel on acceleration of the line

5 years and no trouble.... YET
I used to get cracking at this point
Not any more
600 hp and drag radials dont bother them now

I can nearly lift the front wheel on acceleration of the line

5 years and no trouble.... YET

Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)

This is one of my spare arms that i will be refurbishing to go on my car , when i saw the small welds on the folds ( circled ) i at first assumed that these were a repair to damage caused by flexing
But know realize that these welds are filling a stretch crack caused by the folding of the lip at manufacture
could it be the quality of these welds (IE good weld penetration or whether the weld covered the full length of the crack ) that causes the random nature of these failures .
bad weld penetration would compromise the compression strength of the arm and not covering the end of the tear creates a starting point for flex failure and also both these loads are working around the hard spot of the weld
I am not saying all welds are suspect but being hand welds in a mass produced environment some could be not up to standard and starting to show there age.
Even though I cant prove my theory with formulas or numbers I fell that this upper folded lip carries most of the loads from axle to body
To increase the stiffness of the arm and strengthen the welded area , box these upper lips full length and allow this extra steel to follow the side profile of the arm up and towards the axle bush doubling up the steel past the stretch weld , This should allow the arm to still twist
This is all theory but hopefully will give you some food for thought.
Steve
Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TRIUMPH-DOLOMITE ... 286.c0.m14
Ozbaz has some up on oz ebay. I was going to have a sniff at them just for the bushes, for the restoration of the donor.
I can't recall seeing the weld when I brushed mine back for painting steve.
Ozbaz has some up on oz ebay. I was going to have a sniff at them just for the bushes, for the restoration of the donor.
I can't recall seeing the weld when I brushed mine back for painting steve.
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Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
anything to add to this?
it's becoming a consideration for my car. also, does anyone think the actual axle needs to be strengthened? I've heard them coming loose under heavy cornering and rubbing the tyres on the inside of the arches!
it's becoming a consideration for my car. also, does anyone think the actual axle needs to be strengthened? I've heard them coming loose under heavy cornering and rubbing the tyres on the inside of the arches!
1980 Dolomite Sprint Track Day Car....KLJ 895W. now redtopiffied
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23031
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viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23031
Volkswagen Golf MK3 Gti....R301UUJ. RIP 22-5-13
Volkswagen Golf MK4 TDGTI 150 MM53VNT Sold 7-8-17
BMW 320d Coupe M-Sport YL08 XBZ with factory fitted Performance Pack - Sold 22/05/21
BMW 330d Touring M-Sport WN63 XPY - best daily ever
Proud TDC Member!
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Re: Rear Suspension Arm Failure (Again)
It doesn't have to be a track car or race-car . This thread goes back a few years to my then Sprint daily driver. And it had standard rubber bushes each end.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8741&p=82659&hilit= ... arm#p82659
Tony.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8741&p=82659&hilit= ... arm#p82659
Tony.