As per the title I have an oil leak on my engine which is coming out at a fair rate, i have attached some pics below, it appears to be coming from under the water pump housing, i dont know what is under there can anyone enlighten me ?
photo 4 (1024x768).jpg (170.6 KiB) Viewed 1796 times
photo 2 (1024x768).jpg (149.36 KiB) Viewed 1796 times
photo 3 (1024x768).jpg (148.58 KiB) Viewed 1796 times
The oil is coming from the water pump vent slot which would imply the oil seal on the bottom of the waterpump is kaput. Its less common than failure of the waterpump gland seal that lets water out from the same place, but it does happen! My condolences sir, you are going to have to overhaul the water pump to fix this!
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Best to get all the extra bits and bobs you need in place before you start, like inlet manifold gaskets, O rings and by pass tube O rings too.
Allow about 4 hours first time you do it. If the guide doesnt say so, drain the water from the block drain plug before you start. Twas a while ago I wrote it.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
Well
i started the water pump rebuild today, all was fine until it came to putting the new top seal back in the brass cage, unfortunately my heavy handedness broke the new top seal i got in the kit, are these available separately or does anyone have a spare they can sell me ??
got a little bit further putting the water pump back in tonight, i have a question though, should the brass cage sit completly flat with the engine block or does it sit up very slightly about 1-2 mm, i didn't want to keep banging it so thought i would ask before i do anymore
It goes down as far as the lip on the top of the cage, which sits on the block to stop it going down too far.
You cant see this with the impeller on, which is why the guide says screw the impeller down with the LH bolt
AFTER the rest in in the block. You can drift the end of the shaft in without worrying about breaking the seals
as the guide explains.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
i did follow the wiki guide and as yet i don't have the impeller on as the guide says, so i think i need to try and tap the cage in a little more as its still sitting very slightly prowd thanks for the info
Ok I use a big socket to do this. A bit of vaseline on the O rings helps.
Soma are tighter than others but it shouldn't take much more than a light tap to get it to seat
on the rim. If its difficult be careful the teeth arent catching or under load. Can you still rotate the
shaft ok? Maybe jiggle the crank round to make sure its all in mesh.
Good luck....its a bit nervey the first time you do one.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
i think ive cracked it now, i think looking at again with fresh eyes today it was already where it should be, i do have another question though, how do you know how many gaskets to use on the housing, the Haynes manual says 0.5 mm thickness which i have measured with filer gauges against the thickest gasket in the kit and its thick enough with just that one, does that sound right?
Smear of copper grease on the boss in the base of the cover.
Fit cover and gaskets....if grease gets on the impellor lh bolt you need thicker gaskets.
That sort of thing...
I also tend to use hylomar on the side I want the gasket to stick too and grease on the side I want
it to come away from cleanly.
Also be sure to clean out the top hole in the cover and get it noce and smooth so the new O rings on the bypass
tube seal ok. Bit of vaseline helps them go back in without damage.
Plumbing shop has the right size usually.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
