Dolomite Sprint found in a NZ shed with seized brakes

[Robert 352]

Recently I was told of a Dolomite Sprint sitting in a suburban shed that needs to be moved because the owners of the property want to sell. So in tracking down the owners I found a 1975 Sprint sitting in this shed in the bottom of a garden in the suburbs of Christchurch.

20151219-5592Pw HJ 1700 Shed Chch.jpg (203.31 KiB) Viewed 2198 times

The car has not moved for an estimated 20 years for the owner is suffering from Parkinson’s and no longer lives on the property. His wife who lives on the property has overcome all the issues relating to the damage caused to the house by the recent series of earthquakes and now wants to sell the property and move.

The 1975 Sprint sitting in the shed VA10180DL is very close to the one which I have restored VA10113DLO.

20151219-5593Ptw HJ 1700.jpg (182.02 KiB) Viewed 2198 times

However we have a small problem to overcome before we move the car out into the daylight and that is that the rear brakes have seized on for the car. The handbrake was engaged when the car was parked.

My initial attempts to free the back wheels so that the car can be rolled back have not been successful. I have disconnected the handbrake cables, have applied heat to one of the brake drums, bolted a long bar onto two of the four wheels studs and attempted to rotate the wheel.

The alternative seems to be to unbolt the rear axle assembly remove it from the car and replace it with one a spare. This then would allow us to bring the car out into the daylight, manoeuvre it out onto the street and load it onto a trailer.

I cannot drag the car out from where it is and straight onto a trailer for the car is the wrong way round to load it and it is impossible to get a car trailer up what is a very awkward drive past the house.

Has anybody had any success in freeing the rear brakes on a car where the access is fairly restricted?

Robert

[Triumph1300]

Try taking the wheels off, and shocking the drum with a club hammer. One of 2 things will happen, the brake shoes will free, or the drum will break, either of which will allow the car to move.

[Mahesh]

My car was in a garage for 20 plus years and in exactly the same predicament.

In my case the transporter was able to park behind, and I used the winch to release. When the winch pulled the car it made a big crack sound.

I see the tow ball, are you able to get another vehicle (car) there to pull out, as I know once you pull about a metre, it's pushable.

[tony g]

As Mahesh says try and pull it first, the shoes will release with a big "crack" sound and it will roll over your toes
Nice find there

Tony

[Robert 352]

The car’s owner and I have sort of attempted what Triumph 1300 suggested for we heated the brake drum up and applied a 6 foot long bar on two of the wheel studs and only succeeded in bending the bar. I am reluctant to give the drums a good hearty whack with a club hammer (my preferred method of removing track rod ends) simply because there are no spare drums here in this country and the cost of freighting just one to NZ would be a fraction under £70.00 plus whatever the drum might cost.

Unfortunately we cannot get a car transporter up the drive to the shed. I am not sure that I would want to back my car up and attempt to pull it either. We may be able to attach a winch to a large tree in the garden and that may be the next best option to try.

We will get the car out even if we revert to removing the rear axle and substituting it with a spare. Unless someone else comes up with another suggested remedy.

Tony is correct, it is a nice find although I am inclined to say that it will be really nice for the present owner if we can extract it and bring it back to my workshop where he can, notwithstanding the health issues he has, look at the car more closely and decide what he wants to do.

It is eminently restorable, some rust evident but most of the trim is in excellent condition which is a big plus to those of us living so far from the UK.

My task is to remove the car with least possible disruption and damage to the car and the property.

Keep the suggestions coming for once we get the car out into the daylight and back here I shall probably write separately about the condition of the car and who or how it might be restored.

Mad Mart where are you? This car was originally white when it left the factory. I do not think you have done a white Sprint yet.

Robert

[Steve28]

If you could pull it out with your car even if the wheels are locked up it will pull out then take the wheels off light tapping around the drums should release them without breaking them.

[cliftyhanger]

I have used hammers on drums many times to free them and I am yet to damage a drum.
If concerned use a block of wood between hammer and drum.
The only other thing is that teh adjusters may be tight. On my drums I have a 20mm (approx) hole drilled in the drum face so I can access the adjusters and manually tighten them up or indeed release them. This is std on some cars, for good reason!

[Jon Tilson]

Ok....hand brake cables off...get to the back of the wheel cylinder. It slides in the backplate. You need to push the cylinder in such a way that it forces the piston back in to the bore....and will also push the handbrake lever in the "off" direction.

Best look at your own so you can work out where best to hit/push it...you can pull the rubber gaitor off and you will see the sliding spring clips.

You should then find the wheel frees off.

Breaking drums and swapping axles is far too much like hard work for such a simple problem....

Even with the drum stuck on the shoes Ive always found you can lever the drum off anyway after a while with big screwdrivers but looks like you
have slightly limited access here.

Your other option is plugs out - fully charged battery and see if the starter will wind it out in gear...

Jonners

[AndyJ]

Is there space to rock the car as that is a good way to release the drums and you just need a couple of mates? Do you know anyone with a land rover with a winch as that could be the way to drag it out? Also you don't have to use a metal mallet to shock the drums, a hardwood mallet would be less likely to fracture the drums and you just need that lucky hit!
Andy.

[tony g]

Failing all that or even before all that get some wheel dollies and jack it up drop it on and wheel it out

Tony

[tony g]

Like these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rhyas-Wheel-D ... SweW5VAVI2


Tony

[tony g]

On the subject of hitting drums with mallets, Ive never broken a drum in 30 yrs and Ive hit them HARD when theyve been stubborn. A heavy copper mallet or even a steel hammer. Just hit on the face the wheel touches.

Tony

[Mahesh]

I forgot to add,

My Sprint had a reverse broken gear, otherwise I would have removed the spark plug
leads and jolted out on the starter.

But as Jon said, go for the clips on the rear of the backplates and slide the cylinders,
it's actually easier than you think, look at the diagram for the rear brakes, assisting
Dave at Stoneleigh made me realise what a simple design.

Alternatively, get or borrow a large trolley jack, raise the rear and lower a few times,
it may just help shock the shoes into releasing, I wouldnt advise to pull out with the
jack, unless it's a really large and wide trolley jack.

[tony g]

IMO releasing the linkage via the handbrake wont do anything. Its the linings that are stuck to the drum not a seized linkage pin. Condensation gets in there and voila its like cornflakes stuck to a bowl

Tony

[Carledo]

I've been shocking stuck drums free for more than 40 years, biggest hammer you can swing and hit the outer face. Never smashed one yet!
In this country, it's SOP on any drum rear braked Vauxhall that has been standing more than a few weeks with the handbrake on.

Steve