Fuel pump , no petrol ??

[simonhorton]

Hi All ,
I fitted a new fuel pump to my car , and after turning engine over quite a few times there was no fuel at the pump - inlet or outlet

The tank is full of fuel and the fuel pipe is clear

I cannot remember if there is supposed to be a spacer between the pump and cylinder block ??

How do I know if there needs to be a spacer ?

Is there a dimension / measurement from pump mounting face to end of lever cam heel

Many thanks

[Flyfisherman]

Simon

Some need the spacer, some don't all depends on the length of the fuel pump arm. There is an article about this somewhere on the forum

Paul

[simonhorton]

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the reply

If possible , could you please try and find the article about it on the forum for me

As I'm covered in oil and grease ATM

Many thanks

[Mahesh]

Have you opened the petrol filler cap, worth a try.

[matienzo]

Simon...have you got the arm of the pump the wrong side of the cam lobe. Its easily done and means the pump doesn't work.
Also check the new pump works by pushing the crank arm by hand...you should get a squirt of fuel if you have the feed pipe connected. Knowing the new pump works is a good start I guess!
The need for spacers is dictates by the crank length and angle. Did the old pump have a spacer? Is the new pump arm the same as the old one?

Steve

[Jon Tilson]

There is no way you could fit a long arm pump without a spacer as it wont go up close enough to the block.
Most Sprints I've seen have no spacer. The short pump arm is usually curved and about 2 inches. Long arm pumps
mostly come on TR7's in my experience...

Make sure the arm is on top of the cam as it is easy to get it underneath where it wont pump at all.

Work the pump by hand and you should see evidence of it lifting petrol. If it doesn't look for pin holes in the rubber joiners that
let the pump suck air.

I never fit a pump to car without testing that it lifts fuel from a short length of pipe into a can. Good idea to pre-prime the float chambers
first from a can before starting. Then the engine will draw from the tank rather than the battery and starter, which soon get tired.

Jonners

[Flyfisherman]

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the reply

If possible , could you please try and find the article about it on the forum for me

As I'm covered in oil and grease ATM

Many thanks

Simon

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=23861

I bet you have the short armed pump and added the spacer

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 9EImmkbHLg - see the difference between the arm lengths
Paul

[AlanH]

This may be the thread that you are looking for
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=30523

I think that the previous advice is very sensible, especially checking that it is located properly but there is a bit of a conundrum here..

I have just bought a nos later type (it's 'MOPROD' whatever that is).

fuel_pump.JPG (25.14 KiB) Viewed 2390 times

As you can see it has a longer arm but I am a bit confused. Looking at the wording on the diagram in the thread above it could be that you only need a spacer if you are using later type of pump on an earlier engine so, if you have the correct pump, you should not need a spacer. However Rimmers sell the earlier pump for all engines so they should work without a spacer(???).

[MIG Wielder]

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29016&p=272960&hili ... mp#p272960

If you look at the last post in the above link it has a scale drawing on graph paper of what the early short-arm fuel pump arm should look like. Perhaps print out the drawing full-size and line up the edge of the casting with the edge of the paper.
This was for an old genuine AC fuel pump, with the type number on the arm.
Tony.

[simonhorton]

Hi everyone
I have success at last
No spacer fitted , I think I must have put the cam lever arm the wrong side of the auxiliary shaft

Engine eventually started after 12 years

[simonhorton]

Photos

[Jon Tilson]

Alan I would not use that pump. The arm is the wrong shape and will probably break when fitting even with a spacer.

Jonners

[Mad Mart]

Jon is correct, I fitted the exact same pump, with a spacer, last week. It lasted less than five minutes. I measured the arm before installing and, with the spacer, was within a millimetre of the original. Still broke though.

[MIG Wielder]

This may be the thread that you are looking for
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=30523

I think that the previous advice is very sensible, especially checking that it is located properly but there is a bit of a conundrum here..

I have just bought a nos later type (it's 'MOPROD' whatever that is).

fuel_pump.JPG

As you can see it has a longer arm but I am a bit confused. Looking at the wording on the diagram in the thread above it could be that you only need a spacer if you are using later type of pump on an earlier engine so, if you have the correct pump, you should not need a spacer. However Rimmers sell the earlier pump for all engines so they should work without a spacer(???).

I see the words on the box indicate that it is a TR7 pump. This should be identical to the 1850 / Sprint item.
Rimmers quote early TR7 / 1850 / Sprint as 312167 and the late one as TKC3419 with the same spacers and gaskets. So that pump should be O.K. when fitted with the spacer.
Now what worries me is that I have a NOS A.C. RA1 pump which looks like that one which I bought as a late Sprint one.
The operating arm has the number 7990090 stamped on it and the body is stamped 24F4 & 8088.
Have I got the wrong one ?
Have you seen the price of the spacer block ?
Ta,
Tony.

[xvivalve]

Do the spacers have to be fibre or rubber? I have a fibre one here and reckon I could get some laser cut in aluminium cheaper than £20 a pop!