Wiring the Overdrive Switch
Wiring the Overdrive Switch
Excuse my ignorance, but I am new to Dolomites. I have bought a new O/D switch and wiring harness for the gear lever. I can't see how the wires are meant to be attached to the switch. In the blurry photo you might see what I have got. The wires end with small hollow round connectors, whereas the switch has no corresponding terminals onto which you could plug these connectors. How is it normally done please?
Mike
Mike
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Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
- Mad Mart
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Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
They get inserted vertically on the nearest connectors to your hand. Slide the slots of the terminals on the wires over the copper terminals in the switch.
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years.
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Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.
2012 Porsche Boxster 981 S


Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.
2012 Porsche Boxster 981 S

Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
Ah, I think I see. Having inspected the hollow ends of the connectors with a magnifying glass I now see that the connector is slotted so it can slide along the blade in the switch. The plastic sleeve over the connector gets rucked up doing this and tends to force the connector off the blade, so I suppose I could slit the plastic for a centimetre or so. Weird arrangement if you ask me!
Since the O/D solenoid draws around 2 amps, I think a relay in the circuit would help preserve the switch, which is marked Lucas but I'm guessing was made a long way from these shores.
Mike
Since the O/D solenoid draws around 2 amps, I think a relay in the circuit would help preserve the switch, which is marked Lucas but I'm guessing was made a long way from these shores.
Mike
Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
J type OD solenoid does away with the relay precisely because of that low current.
Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
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Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
The holding coil draws 2 amps but the engaging coil draws more and the insulation is needed because of high voltage transients.
In short the whole thing acts like a mini ignition circuit and it will short out to you via the stick, especially if your seats are soggy.
Trust me I know....
as the spit has on occasion been caught by a shower with the roof off.
A relay on the stick switch part may be a good idea, but its a lot more wires all in the same hostile environment. A better quality stick loom
than cheap 2 core lighting cable is the better solution. They cant even be bothered to change the colours!
Jonners
In short the whole thing acts like a mini ignition circuit and it will short out to you via the stick, especially if your seats are soggy.
Trust me I know....

A relay on the stick switch part may be a good idea, but its a lot more wires all in the same hostile environment. A better quality stick loom
than cheap 2 core lighting cable is the better solution. They cant even be bothered to change the colours!
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
- GrahamFountain
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Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
I was looking at something like this cable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161994835583?var=460958355384, at least for near the base of the stick where it gets abraided. But where would one get the connectors for the switch end?
Graham
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
Graham,
You can get rid of your gearstick with this cable and only have to screw the knob on the cable end. It is 12mm thick in diameter and so sturdy you can probably change gears with it also.
Use some ordinairy thin wall wires of 0,75mm2 or 1mm2 and it goes fine. The PVC type wires do break and are less flexible but the modern (1995+) thin wall are fine. If it makes the mind less stressful about this you can even use a little piece of heatschrink around the wires where it does leave the gearstick.
Jeroen
You can get rid of your gearstick with this cable and only have to screw the knob on the cable end. It is 12mm thick in diameter and so sturdy you can probably change gears with it also.
Use some ordinairy thin wall wires of 0,75mm2 or 1mm2 and it goes fine. The PVC type wires do break and are less flexible but the modern (1995+) thin wall are fine. If it makes the mind less stressful about this you can even use a little piece of heatschrink around the wires where it does leave the gearstick.
Jeroen
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com
Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
Thanks everyone. I think I will look for better cable for the gear lever switch. I like Jeroen's idea of modern thin wall cable. I was surprised to see the ordinary household twin core that was sent to me from Rimmers. As for a relay, I am a great fan of them and will put them on the headlights and heated rear window, so might as well use one for the overdrive too. You don't need any extra wires in the gear stick. The relay can be mounted remotely.
Mike
Mike
Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
- GrahamFountain
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Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
They do thinner versions, and I reckon it will take a while for the remote mechanism to eat through the armour on one of those!soe8m wrote:You can get rid of your gearstick with this cable and only have to screw the knob on the cable end.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
- GrahamFountain
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- Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
You still need extra wires down to the side of the box, and they are a liability in their own right.Bumpa wrote:You don't need any extra wires in the gear stick. The relay can be mounted remotely.
The TR7 has a similar falibility where the reverse light switch wires touch the exhaust. That's even worse in a way, because it takes out the windscreen wipers and the indicators if it happens, even if your in a forward gear - as I found out once in the rain. At least, in my case, the overdrive wire problem only takes out the CD player and the reverse light (the CD player matters more).
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
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Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
I am sorry that I am a bit late with my comments but I have not had a regular internet for some time.
My 1500HL dolomites are used regularly and have been fitted with standard domestic twin lighting cable for a long time, at least 20 years, without any further failures. It is the twin sheathed heat resting type that is used for lighting pendants and care has to be taken to ensure that the sheath is passed out through the top of the gear stick lever so that it protects the inner cores.
My 1500HL dolomites are used regularly and have been fitted with standard domestic twin lighting cable for a long time, at least 20 years, without any further failures. It is the twin sheathed heat resting type that is used for lighting pendants and care has to be taken to ensure that the sheath is passed out through the top of the gear stick lever so that it protects the inner cores.
Re: Wiring the Overdrive Switch
If you go down the relay route then you could also use a telephone handset cord.
Fully designed to be pulled and pushed all over the place withstanding all sorts of abuse.
Fully designed to be pulled and pushed all over the place withstanding all sorts of abuse.
Trevor
75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
2017 Jaguar XE R-sport
75 Sprint in Magenta called GunGaDiN GGD944N
2017 Jaguar XE R-sport