Fitting steering column bulkhead bush

[olr159w]

I suspect this may be a heavily debated topic of the past. However, no harm in re-opening old wounds....

I have a superflex polybush fitted in my car. See pic. See also pic from BL repair manual talking about washers either side.

I also have a worn lower flexible joint which I intend to replace with a UJ per Rimmers alt. part. I'm considering swapping the bush around since the extent that it protrudes into the engine compartment seems excessive and makes aligning the parts a very snug fit.

However, I've realised that removing this poly bush would be impossible without destroying it. It also otherwise makes sense that's its fitted the way around that it is and its consistent with the repair manual. Opinions welcome.

Additionally, if my car ever had the plastic inboard washer and steel outboard washer it certainly doesn't now. I presume these sit against the column flange on the inside and protect the bush from the UJ on the outside. They do sound potentially useful but I don't know whether they can still be sourced and I can see the outer one might make things even tighter.

Thoughts? I have seen the other threads where the washers don't seem to be seen as necessary.

thanks

[soe8m]

I suspect this may be a heavily debated topic of the past. However, no harm in re-opening old wounds....

Watch out. In no time we maybe need a new forum page also.

Jeroen

[olr159w]

Always a risk. Your 2c though - you support fit as manual I think but the washers?

[soe8m]

At first the bush is fitted the wrong way. I have never seen washers in that area other than the welded one. To align fit all and loosen the rack. Then tighten all. The uj replacing the flexi joint will be a big improvement in steering and durability.

Jeroen

Admin please lock this thread now.

[Mad Mart]

No comment.

[olr159w]

At first the bush is fitted the wrong way. I have never seen washers in that area other than the welded one. To align fit all and loosen the rack. Then tighten all. The uj replacing the flexi joint will be a big improvement in steering and durability.

Jeroen

Admin please lock this thread now.

I'm only quoting the repair manual about the washers. Not sure I've seen them either.

I thought you were a fan of the bush being pushed through from the inside? That's how mine is - the wide flange is inside the car and the narrower deeper part within the engine bay

Hoping the UJ will be as you say!

[soe8m]

I do not know where you did read that but I can imagen I did say that once but in a certain context. I did own a lot of original dolomites to be sure there were no extra washers fitted and that the bush was pushed in from the engine side.

Jeroen.

[soe8m]

Some u/j's are not a direct fit. It can happen that you need to shorten slightly the shaft of the std uj/shaft.

Jeroen

[olr159w]

Hi Jeroen

Thanks for that. You know the repair manual shows it being pushed through from the footwell side !

I was looking at changing it over earlier but :
a) I can see that it probably makes little difference but on balance you'd probably argue that pushing through from footwell side reduces the chance of the bush popping out. And its consistent with the repair manual. Does beg the question how it is you had original cars with the bush pushed through from the engine side. Usual BL quality control I expect

b) found there's no way you're going to remove a poly one without destroying it anyway (meaning any argument about it popping out is void in the first place)

Interesting with the UJ. I tried fitting it before and couldn't because the flat on the spline area was too short and prevented the necessary positioning. At the time I gave up. Today I lengthened the flat area with the angle grinder and I reckon it should be OK. If not, as you say, might need to shorten the std UJ shaft slightly.

Thanks

[sprintchris]

Fitted a poly bush to mine a couple of weeks ago, fitted as per diagram in parts catalogue - pushed in so larger diameter bit is inside car - made sense so it doesn't fall out. What material is the washer between knuckle and the bush? Wasn't one on mine. It does run close to the uj but haven't had chance to have a proper look. Maybe the uj can contact the longer bit and rotate the bush in its housing.
Regarding the coupling and uj not fitting, years ago when I was a teenager had an 1850, tried fitting a patter uj and it would not fit, got a genuine one - straight on.
When I did the poly bush couple of weeks ago I also fitted genuine uj and coupling - fitted perfectly. Got to watch anything pattern, especially modern day pattern parts.

Chris.

[olr159w]

Chris - thanks for that. Refer to the manual excerpt above for alleged washer materials. No one seems to have ever seen them fitted in practice so perhaps it was an idea that got committed to the print run for the manuals before the decision was taken to discard them.

The UJ I have probably but had issues with the flat part of the spline length. Now that has been modified I think it will be OK. It was from Rimmers, no doubt a pattern part

cheers

[TrustNo1]

You can remove the bush without damage by first removing the mounting plate

[Karlos]

I always fit mine from the inside (of the garage) while drinking a beer.

Remember it is fit and forget. I get mine from Mick Manners or Dave Dolphin, club discount, blah, club stock in stock, worth every penny blahblah ebay, cheap false rubbish, economy paying more, forgot to fit, inside engine bay fall out of footwell.

[Galileo]

The 1973-75 parts book omits to show the bush at all, the 1976- one does, the part is a CRC360, or perhaps a UKC2322, there are rubber ones, poly ones and even a brass one, the Sprint repair manual shows it going in from engine side, but it might go in from the cabin side because that's what the amended parts book drawing suggests, on the TR7/8 it pushes in from the engine side, as it does on the Rover SD1, and all with countless TDC forum posts on the subject hilariously debating the pro's and con's with vigour on a regular basis!

Moral of the story, if it pops out you haven't fitted it properly so warm it up in hot water, lube up and insert et voila fit 'n' forget!

[olr159w]

I got it all to fit by amending the end of the UJ spline. Mine no longer has a recess in the spline where the bolt passes across such that the spline is full diameter at both ends of the recess. Instead I shortened the length and removed the full diameter section at the open end.

I did think about this a bit before doing it. In theory the recess design provides a safety feature meaning the spline cannot be withdrawn unless the bolt is removed.

In reality the spline sits a long way down the next UJ and is effectively clamped in place both by the pinch bolt and the close proximity and tight fit of all the parts. For the spline to withdraw from the UJ the pinch bolt would have to have failed plus the steering rack would have to move a considerable distance from the steering column in order to come free. I figure if I'm ever in a situation where the rack or sub frame has moved away or where the column and bulkhead have moved that distance away from the otherwise fixed subframe and rack then I will have much bigger things to worry about than the integrity of the steering couplings