Anti-roll bar ends
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marko
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- Location: newton abbot, south devon
Re: Anti-roll bar ends
This is 72 shore but I'm sure with a couple of emails or phone calls, the appropriate shore can be foundLook at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322529272015
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SprintnSideways
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Anti-roll bar ends
Must have been bad in a previous life - I'm stuck in Melbourne...
I wonder if you could actually use the link casing and pour the poly into the casing? Might have to experiment. Some of the guys in the TCCV here are making gaskets and bits using Silicone, but it's a bit complicated because you need to vacuum it once you mix it and then vacuum it again once you pour it....
The stuff Marko has pointed to looks like value for money - wonder if you can get it in Oz? (thanks for the link Marko)
I don't know how the Shore hardness relates to bushes - looks like I need to hit the 'net again and learn something..
Heres a couple of photos of a sad dolly, soon to be happy again...
Pete
I wonder if you could actually use the link casing and pour the poly into the casing? Might have to experiment. Some of the guys in the TCCV here are making gaskets and bits using Silicone, but it's a bit complicated because you need to vacuum it once you mix it and then vacuum it again once you pour it....
The stuff Marko has pointed to looks like value for money - wonder if you can get it in Oz? (thanks for the link Marko)
I don't know how the Shore hardness relates to bushes - looks like I need to hit the 'net again and learn something..
Heres a couple of photos of a sad dolly, soon to be happy again...
Pete
I have a fine and extensive collection of old rust. I store it carefully in a Stag.
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Flyfisherman
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Re: Anti-roll bar ends
My polybush ones failed too - I too contacted Jigsaw racing regarding the failure and a replacement pair issued, I was told several failures had been reported. The problem was how the bolt was secured to the bush sleeve, the head of the bolt had only been welded on two of the flats, the replacement ones had the bolt welded on all sides (six sides). The superflex ones have a socket headed bolt welded onto the bush sleeve - this too has been welded all around the head.
Paul
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SprintnSideways
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Anti-roll bar ends
Hi Paul,
Did you happen to get any photo's of how teh bolt was welded, or a photo of the failed component?
It's always good to be able to document failures, then we can figure out good from bad - don't know that I need any welds failing at 100mph...
PeteB
Did you happen to get any photo's of how teh bolt was welded, or a photo of the failed component?
It's always good to be able to document failures, then we can figure out good from bad - don't know that I need any welds failing at 100mph...
PeteB
I have a fine and extensive collection of old rust. I store it carefully in a Stag.
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misterp
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- Location: Perth, Western Australia
Re: Anti-roll bar ends
Cold pour would be what I'd do.
I'd be tempted to make new units up by getting some pipe and cutting some up to the correct length and before pouring, weld a new length of threaded stud in before pouring.
This is the place in Perth...surely there must be places in VIC?
http://www.kirkside.com.au/L77/polyurethane-elastomers/
If you get super stuck then I can sort something for you here and get it in to the post..
Cheers
Andrew
I'd be tempted to make new units up by getting some pipe and cutting some up to the correct length and before pouring, weld a new length of threaded stud in before pouring.
This is the place in Perth...surely there must be places in VIC?
http://www.kirkside.com.au/L77/polyurethane-elastomers/
If you get super stuck then I can sort something for you here and get it in to the post..
Cheers
Andrew
Last edited by misterp on Mon May 29, 2017 9:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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marko
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- Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:50 pm
- Location: newton abbot, south devon
Re: Anti-roll bar ends
I'd be tempted to make new units up by getting some pipe and cutting some up to the correct length and before pouring weld a new length of threaded stud in before pouring.
Rather than stud which isn't graded, you'd be better of going for some high tensile graded bolts. 8.8, 10.9 etc etc.
I like the idea of the steel tube. Maybe some large washers welded on each end to copy the original rolled/ inwardly flared ends...
Rather than stud which isn't graded, you'd be better of going for some high tensile graded bolts. 8.8, 10.9 etc etc.
I like the idea of the steel tube. Maybe some large washers welded on each end to copy the original rolled/ inwardly flared ends...
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Flyfisherman
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Re: Anti-roll bar ends
PeteSprintnSideways wrote: ↑Sun May 28, 2017 12:23 pm Hi Paul,
Did you happen to get any photo's of how teh bolt was welded, or a photo of the failed component?
It's always good to be able to document failures, then we can figure out good from bad - don't know that I need any welds failing at 100mph...
PeteB
I have found the pictures - will post them later, after reviewing the pictures the bolt was welded on four side of the bolt head, replacement set where welded on all six sides.
What they should have done was machine the bolt head so it followed the external curve of the metal sleeve then welded the bolt head on all six sides.
Paul