Sprint fuel pump.

[Daz50]

Hi all.
Could someone point me in the right direction for a sprint fuel pump please. I've looked on robsport and rimmers and more confused than ever.
Thanks,
Daz

[SprintMWU773V]

For a Sprint there's basically 2 types long arm and short arm. If you have a block spacer between pump and the cylinder block you'll need a long arm or no spacer you need a short arm. Alternatively you can do away with the spacer and fit a short armed one. Ones for 1500/1300 engines do not fit as the arm is the wrong shape.

I see you've had problems sealing the gasket too. I'd consider brushing a little Heldite on the gasket and mating faces then it should help it seal. The paper gaskets are usually pretty rubbish, you could always make your own out of a decent material.

Here's the one of Rimmers site - https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-312167 if you look at all the pumps you can see the difference in the arm shapes.

I'd recommend you fit an inline filter to collect the inevitable crud in the lines, saves removing the pump to clean it.

[Jon Tilson]

If this is a repeat of t he f-b thread by your own admission the old pump works fine, so why buy a new one?

The OE AC delco type is not user serviceable but some cars may have even had the Quinton Hazel type with removable top cover from the
factory and this was a popular after market replacement. Ive seen quite a few cars with the QH pump in both long and short arm types.

TR7's generally seem to come long arm and spacer. Most Sprints I have seen are no spacer and short arm

In all cases refitting is a bind that is reduced by turning the engine so the pump cam is downwards thus less pressure on the arm as you fit it.

The screws are a bitch to relocate so some go for studs.

Leaking gaskets are common and made worse by crank pressure so be sure your rocker breather is clear and use a decent gasket and hylomar or similar.

Buy nothing from the shower in Lincoln and you wont go far wrong.

Jonners

[AlanH]

The screws are a bitch to relocate so some go for studs.

Put a button magnet in the socket and then the bolt. It will hold the bolt solid while you push to locate it.

Some of the fuel pump bolts have a slot in them so you can do the same sort of thing with a screwdriver.

[MIG Wielder]

If this is a repeat of t he f-b thread by your own admission the old pump works fine, so why buy a new one?

In all cases refitting is a bind that is reduced by turning the engine so the pump cam is downwards thus less pressure on the arm as you fit it.

The screws are a bitch to relocate so some go for studs.

Jonners

How to determine when the pump lever is at the lowest point of the operating cam ? I have a spare jackshaft here and the lowest point of the cam is with the dowel pin on the end of the cam right at the bottom. ( see photo ). So how does this relate to the crank position ? Looking at the timing chain set-up procedure in the workshop manual the dowel pin is at the left side of the jackshaft sprocket in line with scribed line, with the crank sprocket at TDC.
So to get the dowel pin at the bottom the jackshaft must be turned by 90 degrees, so the crank sprocket must be turned backwards through 180 degrees so the timing mark is at the bottom. It all helps to make fitting easier.
Early pump with the short operating arm is 312167.
Later pump with the long operating arm is TKC3419.
The gasket is 138791.

[Jon Tilson]

Or just put a finger or long thin screwdriver in the hole and feel for the low spot.....

Jonners

[Daz50]

Many thanks all.
Really appreciated.
I will let you know the outcome !

Daz