water loss

[epcot_pete]

Well I went and visited Steve in Highley and he gave me some interesting pointers, which I cannot thank him enough for his time.
So today I tried to put my finger up (politely) into the water-pump to check for blockages and to feel for the blades of the rotor. No luck so I used a piece of wire with no joy, so off with the bonnet, off with the radiator and off with the water-pump. This was fine with the rotor blades in one piece and firmly attached to the shaft. So I took off all the rubber hoses and blasted the system with a garden hose, all clear with clean water. Then I blasted each hose and found the one from the heated inlet manifold to the pipe from the water-pump was blocked with two plastic caps! Attached are pictures.
Took the car for a long run out and it was certainly cooler at about 170-190 degrees and car felt better, even the gear changing as Steve thought the under-bonnet heat may affect the clutch fluid.
I have no idea where or how long the plastic caps were in the system? I overhauled the engine and fitted new hoses so it must have been me who allowed the caps into the system.
I will buy some summer cooling fluid tomorrow and that will also help the system.
Thanks All for your comments.
Take Care
Pete

[Carledo]

Well I have to admit, that's a new one on me! The plastic cups you found are similar to those used by reconditioning services to blank brake cylinders and the like in transit. What they are doing in your cooling system is beyond me!

But a blockage is a blockage! It just HAD to be a blockage somewhere, or else a cracked head! I'm just glad you found it BEFORE you pulled the head off!

Steve

[Mahesh]

The only words coming to mind are,

Capped off

[epcot_pete]

Well I've driven the car quite a bit over the weekend and it has run well but the temperature is still on the high side and the electric fan is on quite a bit. It is certainly cooler than before but I think it is still too high to be 'normal' (like me
I think now I should consider looking at the head area over the winter period. The car is not good on hills, alright tootling along at 50ish, but hills are embarrassing! So as I do not have hardened valve seats, what head should I be looking out for? I understand a Spitfire head would fit and has larger inlet valves, would having harden exhaust seats fitted be worthwhile and have it skimmed at the same time? if so by how much? What other head should I consider? I have been told another camshaft other than standard would be beneficial, if so which one?
Thanks for you time everyone.
Pete
P.S. Good one Maresh!

[AlanH]

The late, great, John Kipping recommended a 1/34 SU HS6. I think that Canley still run a 1300 with one.
Evidently he said that it performed as well as twin HS4s.

One thing, if you go down the carb. route make sure that you upgrade the exhaust. I put twin SUs on my 13/60 and did not get much improvement until I put a bigger exhaust on. It now has overdrive which it manages without any problems (I know that's not relevant but I just like telling people !).

In fact that may be worth doing that first, would a 1500 exhaust fit?

[epcot_pete]

I suppose that is one thing I have not considered is the exhaust. When I restored the car, I fitted a stainless steel exhaust so maybe I have to consider scrapping it off at £300......................ouch!

[Carledo]

1300TC FWD 4 branch manifold coming soon from club spares. I think this will mate to your existing stainless system.

Steve

[epcot_pete]

Hi Steve, but will not the rest of the system be too small in bore diameter?

[Triumph1300]

Pete,
No, it will work nicely with the system you have fitted, it is a copy of the SAH manifold, and will even work with a single Stromberg

[NickMorgan]

How strange to find those plastic caps in there. I hope there aren't any more in the system somewhere.
I will be interested to see if you manage to extract some more power from your 1300. I am keen to do the same with mine.

[epcot_pete]

After all the messing around I took the bonnet off (so easy to work on engine!) and then the head and took it to my local engine machinist (Bromsgrove Engine Services) and explained all my troubles. He pressure tested the head and found no leaks, which I was chuffed about! He skimmed the head and took off 0.007" before it was flat and then further so total amount was 0.030" removed. He tried to get a Payen head gasket as he thought they were the best, but they do not make them anymore so he got a normal set with no manufacturing name. I carefully put it all back together and spent some time with the tappets and timing @ 9 degrees BTDC. The machinist guy reckoned that I could go up to 16 degrees BTDC, but I was unsure so I marked up the distributer at 9 and 16 degrees.
Checked the compression which had increased to about 125 psi, obviously due to 0.030" being removed.
It started well and took it for a run and it still got a little warm and tappets were loud. Today I took bonnet off again and removed electric fan and put back original 4 blade fan. Got the tappets as best as I could and set the timing to about 12 degrees BTDC. Took it out and it was like driving a different car! Cruised at 65/70mph on local by-pass and found lots of hills to go up and it pulled well in 4th and tempreture never got above normal so really pleased. We are off to Far Forest for a show the weekend so fingers crossed it will run well.
Just two questions - do I need to re-torque the head down after certain amount of miles and any thoughts on the 16 degrees BTDC?
Many Thanks to all especially Steve Carledo for his time
Pete

[Triumph1300]

Did you disconnect the vacuum when timing, or do it statically?

Re torque after 500, and check again after 1000 miles. Modern gaskets seem to give a bit more than the old copper/asbestos ones.

About 10 degrees is where KAC normally runs, but there can be issues with the timing marks.

If it's running happily, no pinking, leave it.

[epcot_pete]

Did it statically. There is evidence that previously the crankshaft nut came loose and the flywheel/starter/pulley assembly came off damaging the pulley bore and keyway, likewise the crankshaft end and key. So a bit of play may mean my timing marks could be wrong.
Like you say, if it works leave alone.
Thank Pete