Front parcel shelf card

[GrahamFountain]

Anybody seen a source of the card used to make the parcel shelf? I think the part number was WKC3211. I only need to rebuild the ends that have got water damaged - I think they'll do as patterns, and I don't care it won't be in one piece.

Graham

[new to this]

Its millboard both woolies and martim sell it

Dave

[GrahamFountain]

Its millboard both woolies and martim sell it

Dave

I looked at both, and a couple of other suppliers, but none seem to have it at the thickness used in the Sprint. That's especially so for the base, which seems to be more like hardboard - has a pattern embossed on the reverse.
They're also dammned expensive for cardboard covered in sticky back plastic - especially the P&P!

Graham

[Carledo]

The millboard you can buy also doesn't bend and fold like the original stuff did either! we've had "Cliff the trimmer" of Car SOS fame working on re-creating the parcel tray for a few months now and it's got him tearing his remaining hair out! The original was a very complex piece of origami, made in 2 or 3 different materials and was at least in part made in pre shaped sections which allowed for the folds to be made, rather than the "universal" stuff you get now which comes in plain sheets and cracks or tears before a fold gets to 90 degrees.

Cliff is currently experimenting with a plastic (ABS?) material which has a similar pattern embossed into it and is more malleable and user friendly, yet still will crumple easily with knee impact! But we don't know how the purists will react to it!

Steve

[GrahamFountain]

I was looking at 3mm hardboard with black leather effect sticky back for the base. I thought about millboard for the rest, but it's a bit expensive for the small amount I want than.
Does the plastic sheet need heat to bend?

Graham

[xvivalve]

Getting difficult to find now, but some DIY stores still sell a black hardboard bath panel.

[SprintMWU773V]

The secret with millboard is to score it before folding. I need to refurb a parcel shelf and I'll probably use millboard and hold it together with book binding screws. I might also cover the board with something fuzzy as it does mark easily.

[TrustNo1]

The secret with millboard is to score it before folding. I need to refurb a parcel shelf and I'll probably use millboard and hold it together with book binding screws. I might also cover the board with something fuzzy as it does mark easily.

scoring does allow it to fold but not with the crease as the original has, to get the crease you need to heat the seam, very very carefully without burning or melting it.

[GrahamFountain]

Got (found) some 3mm hardboard and used that to replace the base, coverd with some vinyl from re-covering the C post.

First two are of it as it came out, from this morning.

I used a load of 4mm x 20mm dia stainless penny washers and 4mm pop rivets to hold it all together - first time I ever had a pop rivet shaft break off halfway down. And the same to hold it to the front cross member of the shelf assembly. The two rivets on left hand that show, I used some small black washers I had, but I aren't that happy with having done them from underneath.

Last is as fitted - the mark is just some dust from sanding. I did take a little time to wet and unbend the millboard in the workmate - just letting it dry in the sun while held straight. That's made it a bit better. Maybe I could have slapped some paint on the bits before putting it back and fixing it in. Maybe I could have soaked them in resin or some such. But the speaker, which is waterproof, covers most of the worst of the remaining damage. I just didn't fancy it falling on me foot while I was driving.

Graham