Froggy dolly 2

[dololo]

ok,
but with the electric fan , it looks there's no room to make à deeper cooler , and the holes to screw the cooler on the shell are very close to the cooler

let's go further with silly questions :
Is there a way to modify steering rack , to have a less demultiplicated one ?
I know one man in France is doing that , but Don't know where to find parts

[dololo]

And now a question for the jackshaft
we are rebuilding the engine, and when fititing the jackshaft , it turns free
but whent we are screwing the fork which prevent the jackshaft from moving , it is blocked and refuse to turn ( without waterpump and oil pump) .
Does someone know where this problem come from ?

PS : the parts are the original parts which were ok when dismantling the engine .

[dololo]

Some news about the sprint
we did an engine rebuild with balanced crankshaft , new pistons with weight setup .
The engine turned well , but it seems the Payen head gasket is already failed(less than 800 kms) , despite the waterpump setup ( as the workshop manual) and the electric fan . i didn't rev to more than 3500rev/min for the moment .

the water coolant level increases in the tank , and i see small bubbles when i accelerate manually.

before doing anything more , i would like to obtain maximum feedbacks of guys who experienced sprint rebuild :
-torque order
-torque value
-quality gasket
-modifications or improvements
-tricks that can help …

have a nice Week end

[MIG Wielder]

James and I have been working on a new head gasket for his Sprint.
So on the basis of our recent work ...

* We used the torque order in the Sprint workshop manual page 12-16 section 12.29.27

* The torque setting we used was the one on page 06-1 of 55 ft.lbs or 7.6 Kgf. m

* We increased the torque settings gradually from 20 ---> 30 ---> 40 ---> 50 ---> 55 ft.lbs on all the nuts and bolts in the specified order.

* After starting the engine and running it for a few minutes we let it cool and rechecked the torque settings.

* We rechecked the torque 1 week later by slackening each nut & bolt 1/6 turn in turn and then retorquing.

* James found a good Payen gasket. This has worked well.

* James did ask the machine shop for a weld of the corrosion and a minimum skim to restore flatness of the head. The block looked fine with a straight edge.

Did you re-torque your cylinder head afterwards ?

We have fuelling problems right now, but the head side of things looks good still.

HTH,
A Bientot,
Antoine.

[Mad Mart]

Tighten the studs/bolts in three passes working gradually to 58 ft lbs minimum. Some guys go to 60 ft lbs. Start with the centre stud and work outwards then the centre bolt & work outwards. Do this for each pass. Use a little lubricant on the threads to help achieve the correct torque figure.

[dololo]

i've put the head off last week
very surprised to see the gasket is not broken ... so i don't understand why the coolant level increase so often
i found a little bit of jelly ( mix of oil and coolant) at the top of the rocker cover

if you have possible explanations, don't hesitate to share

is there a way to obtain a coolant bottle cap which works at the right pressure ? mine looks to open before the 13 PSI

[80Sprint]

Is your cap 13lb and just not fitting properly ? Has the bottle neck corroded ? You can get new caps from many suppliers on the internet as they are not that uncommon in other models.

It does seem like you have water and oil mixing somewhere. I would be inclined to start again with another gasket and make sure you take the advice before on how to torque, warm up and re torque etc. You could of course clean it all up and try the same gasket but you may just be wasting more time.

Usually the tricks are going back to basics as if it is all set up properly you should not have an issue.

Is the block flat ?
Is the head flat ?
Did you use new bolts and studs ?
What torque lbs were used ?
What torque method did you use ?
Did you re-torque ?
Did you check the water pump clearance ok ?
Is the fan definitely coming on ?

I have had many issues in the past. Stick at it and you will get there but i know it is frustrating when you can,t pinpoint an issue.

[dololo]

Hello,
some fresh news :
head removed, the gasket is ok .
So we decided to do a pressure check to the head , there is a leak coming from an inlet port in the head .
I will try an other head . but i am looking for the maximum skim value for a sprint head . can anyone help ?

It is my second dolomite, and it is the second time i have to change a head , feeling tired ….

[marshman]

Is this what you need??




hope that helps

Roger

[dololo]

Thanks a lot for your quick answer, Roger . that 's exactly what i need .
does it come from a known book i should try to find ?

[sprint95m]

Hello,
some fresh news :
head removed, the gasket is ok .
So we decided to do a pressure check to the head , there is a leak coming from an inlet port in the head .
I will try an other head . but i am looking for the maximum skim value for a sprint head . can anyone help ?

It is my second dolomite, and it is the second time i have to change a head , feeling tired ….

Sorry, very late reading this.
Firstly, for problems like this I suggest you start a thread in the Dolomite Related section, simply because more people will see it.


Obviously, by the time you are seeing bubbles, you have a plastic tank on the inner wing.
As a starting point I would changed the tank (for any screw top one)
because it is more likely to be the tank (rather than the cap) that is at fault.

If you decide to make this change you will need a short piece of hose and an adapter,
I can advise on the adapter and will send you a suitable hose,
so please send me a PM.



thanks,
Ian.

[dololo]

still the same problem with new head , new radiator and new coolant tank cap .
i did a special post in the dolomite related section
the coolant level increase until overflow , while the thermostat cap is full of gas