Early 1850 advice

[veloce_rosso]

That's a picture of my beloved Sprint in Inca Yellow. It was a W plate and according to a friend (checked the VIN number) who worked the trade it was one of the last 50 ever made. Sold it in 1992.

[veloce_rosso]

Been searching the net and there's one that looks good for nearly 4k, which is a little too rich given the seller has said there are bubbles of rust on the doors.

Another which needs a new clutch, welding to the inner arches, boot... no doubt other places. He asking around £1200 sounds too much for a car that could potentially need a rebuild from the ground up. He says the engine runs but doesn't mean it's in good condition.

Other than these two, most of the other 1850s are abroad.

[cleverusername]

Been searching the net and there's one that looks good for nearly 4k, which is a little too rich given the seller has said there are bubbles of rust on the doors.

Another which needs a new clutch, welding to the inner arches, boot... no doubt other places. He asking around £1200 sounds too much for a car that could potentially need a rebuild from the ground up. He says the engine runs but doesn't mean it's in good condition.

Other than these two, most of the other 1850s are abroad.

Covid 19 will mean allot of cars aren't being listed at the moment.

I agree with you about those cars, for 4K I would want something that was rust free. As for the other one, there is a good chance you might find more rot if you start digging.

Anyway hopefully something more promising will turn up.

[veloce_rosso]

Been searching the net and there's one that looks good for nearly 4k, which is a little too rich given the seller has said there are bubbles of rust on the doors.

Another which needs a new clutch, welding to the inner arches, boot... no doubt other places. He asking around £1200 sounds too much for a car that could potentially need a rebuild from the ground up. He says the engine runs but doesn't mean it's in good condition.

Other than these two, most of the other 1850s are abroad.

Covid 19 will mean allot of cars aren't being listed at the moment.

I agree with you about those cars, for 4K I would want something that was rust free. As for the other one, there is a good chance you might find more rot if you start digging.

Anyway hopefully something more promising will turn up.

Thanks. Not seriously looking at the moment but it's interesting to compare prices. Having been around most cars all my life I know the description is often different to reality.

[James467]

Get in touch with James Shepard on here. Hes restoring an early 1850 that he will sell when its done, it will be a good one.

Thanks Matt!

Yes I am currently restoring Nina, unfortunately due to the current situation I have slowed a bit as I am stuck with looking after the kids!! But it will leave me with a new paint job and fully wax (Bilt Hamber) rust protected, new brakes, electronic ignition, fully relayed cibie halogen headlamps (loom by Jeroen) the full works. When you are ready feel free to give me a shout.

I have a couple of updates to do, the rear wheel arches are now done and I just need to fit the outer sill.

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 19&t=35610

[veloce_rosso]

Get in touch with James Shepard on here. Hes restoring an early 1850 that he will sell when its done, it will be a good one.

Thanks Matt!

Yes I am currently restoring Nina, unfortunately due to the current situation I have slowed a bit as I am stuck with looking after the kids!! But it will leave me with a new paint job and fully wax (Bilt Hamber) rust protected, new brakes, electronic ignition, fully relayed cibie halogen headlamps (loom by Jeroen) the full works. When you are ready feel free to give me a shout.

I have a couple of updates to do, the rear wheel arches are now done and I just need to fit the outer sill.

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 19&t=35610

Hi James. Just seen the photos on your link and it looks a honest example. You don't live too far away from me, which will be handy once the situation eases. Out of interest, what colour are you having the Dolly painted?

[sprint95m]

What's the problem with waterless coolant? It seems to tolerate much higher temperatures and it doesn't corrode the rad or water pump.

No problem with it... but if the pump, rad and coolant system is well fettled it's just not needed imho. Oh another mod on my car is the Volvo header tank for the coolant system (it's on the thread I linked to)
Cheers,
Sam

Evans Waterless Coolant is more efficient than a water based coolant because it doesn't cavitate,
Instead it stays in contact with all surfaces all the time, thereby eliminating localised boiling.
It has been around for decades in North America, just look at all the vehicle manufacturers using it.

Slant four engines are prone to cavitation at the back of the engine (hence why head gaskets blow between 3 and 4).
Triumph (and Saab) changed water pump impellers to try and alleviate this, but that couldn't solve the problem alone because of the pump being
much higher than the lowest point of the cooling system.
Using a header tank does largely solve the problem, but the header tank needs really to be higher than the engine's highest point
for the low level indicator to be activated BEFORE the coolant level drops in the engine.
From the mid 70s Saabs used header tanks (as indeed did all manufacturers for this reason).

Slant four Dolomites give "normal" temperature readings if the coolant level drops below the temperature sender
(there are warnings about this in the workshop manuals). TR7s were equipped with header tanks....


Unlike water, EWC does not pressurise. This obviously reduces the strain on rubber components such as hoses.
Furthermore it does not corrode the engine's internals or clog the radiator.

For all Dolomites, the correct version to use is Powercool 180, not the classic versions.
The classic versions are not recommended for vehicles without a header or for engines with alloy content.



Ian.

[veloce_rosso]

What's the problem with waterless coolant? It seems to tolerate much higher temperatures and it doesn't corrode the rad or water pump.

No problem with it... but if the pump, rad and coolant system is well fettled it's just not needed imho. Oh another mod on my car is the Volvo header tank for the coolant system (it's on the thread I linked to)
Cheers,
Sam

Evans Waterless Coolant is more efficient than a water based coolant because it doesn't cavitate,
Instead it stays in contact with all surfaces all the time, thereby eliminating localised boiling.
It has been around for decades in North America, just look at all the vehicle manufacturers using it.

Slant four engines are prone to cavitation at the back of the engine (hence why head gaskets blow between 3 and 4).
Triumph (and Saab) changed water pump impellers to try and alleviate this, but that couldn't solve the problem alone because of the pump being
much higher than the lowest point of the cooling system.
Using a header tank does largely solve the problem, but the header tank needs really to be higher than the engine's highest point
for the low level indicator to be activated BEFORE the coolant level drops in the engine.
From the mid 70s Saabs used header tanks (as indeed did all manufacturers for this reason).

Slant four Dolomites give "normal" temperature readings if the coolant level drops below the temperature sender
(there are warnings about this in the workshop manuals). TR7s were equipped with header tanks....


Unlike water, EWC does not pressurise. This obviously reduces the strain on rubber components such as hoses.
Furthermore it does not corrode the engine's internals or clog the radiator.

For all Dolomites, the correct version to use is Powercool 180, not the classic versions.
The classic versions are not recommended for vehicles without a header or for engines with alloy content.



Ian.

Thanks Ian -- very insightful. I presume header tanks work in the same way as water expansion tanks. Sorry, this is where my Dolomite logic hits a brick wall.

I guess, then, EWC coupled with a header tank should solve many of the cars ills. I suppose it boil down (excuse the pun) to whether you can weigh up the extra cost. Although on first reading it seems like a no-brainer.

Cheers, Richard.

[sprint95m]

I presume header tanks work in the same way as water expansion tanks. Sorry, this is where my Dolomite logic hits a brick wall.

They don't work the same way at all.
Mr Foreman explains the difference in the early part of this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPKaFcOwemI

A long time ago, it was common for cars to have the header tank built into the top of the radiator (therefore the radiator cap is here),
with an expansion tank mounted along side.


The confusion on Dolomites is that the tank fitted to the inner wing is neither a header tank or an expansion tank!
If you think about it, spraying coolant all over a front wheel is rather ridiculous?



Ian.

[James467]

I think Ian works for Evans!

Personally I wouldn't bother with waterless coolant.

I've used it before in a number of engines and it's expensive, a faff to put in especially if the engine has had standard glycol coolant in it before, relatively difficult to get hold of and expensive!

If you're in the middle of nowhere and need coolant at least with standard stuff it's relatively easy to get, or you just chuck water in.

I just don't think it's a great substitute for a healthy cooling system, he lack of pressure in the system can also mask other issues as well.

Nina will have a ceramic insert water pump and standard coolant.

[James467]

The expansion tank on a dolomite is an expansion tank.

The air in it allows for a cushioning effect on the cooling system allowing it to heat up and cool down without putting undue stress on other seals and components.

[veloce_rosso]

Thank you gentlemen. Okay, I 'get' the header tank now. Is there a specific one used for a Dolly or could any brand work? Or which one would you recommend?

As regards waterless coolant I still need to research more, as there's so much conflicting advice... both sides of the reasoning has merit.

Cheers, Richard

[Carledo]

FWIW, i'm with James on the waterless debate. The night a hose bursts (and it will) and you're in your best suit and nothing in the car you'll rue the day you spent all that money on EWC!

Volvo header tanks are well thought of, Ian and James both favour the 850 (and other models) tank set near the N/S strut tower. I like a 240 tank myself, mounted near the bonnet stay on the O/S flitch. It doesn't have a level sensor, though that's fixable with a level sensing cap, but its bigger and a more useful shape. And mounting on the offside means a lot shorter hose runs.

My 2 pennorth, Steve

[matt of the vivas]

My 1850 has an entirely standard cooling system and copes with traffic jams in 30 degree heat in the summer, never an issue. The standard cooling system is well up to the job as long as its well maintained, i change the coolant every other year.

[sprint95m]

you're in your best suit

How many suits do you have Steve?




Ian.