rear hub puller
rear hub puller
I am going to have to tackle the rear wheel bearings on my SE sooner rather than later.
I am looking for advice on hub pullers. I know the three legged universal type is useless, and most of the universal types advertised seem too fragile for the job.
My question is; has anybody used the Canley Classics puller? I know it will bolt to the hub. I was wondering if it is worth getting one. Failing that, has anybody used an engineering firm to get theirs done?
Thanks for any feedback
I am looking for advice on hub pullers. I know the three legged universal type is useless, and most of the universal types advertised seem too fragile for the job.
My question is; has anybody used the Canley Classics puller? I know it will bolt to the hub. I was wondering if it is worth getting one. Failing that, has anybody used an engineering firm to get theirs done?
Thanks for any feedback
Re: rear hub puller
Just done this job myself, approached with much trepidation but the Canley Classics puller laughed at it and hubs were off in seconds with no drama for the first time since the car left the factory. Make sure you get it fastened up good and tight but money well spent in my opinion.
Sean
Sean
1977 1850 HL manual O/D
Re: rear hub puller
I have one of these....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPIT ... Swu2tccwb1
I have heavily modified mine to work with Sprint hubs as well, works perfectly!
Tighten it up, hit it with a big hammer..... PING!
You'll need a press to get the bearings off the shafts.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPIT ... Swu2tccwb1
I have heavily modified mine to work with Sprint hubs as well, works perfectly!
Tighten it up, hit it with a big hammer..... PING!

You'll need a press to get the bearings off the shafts.
- yorkshire_spam
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Re: rear hub puller
I have one of those type too... I tighten it with a socket on the air gun... because it's all fun until I lose an eye.James467 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:55 pm I have one of these....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPIT ... Swu2tccwb1
I have heavily modified mine to work with Sprint hubs as well, works perfectly!
Tighten it up, hit it with a big hammer..... PING!
You'll need a press to get the bearings off the shafts.
.-) <--- one eyed smiley.
Re: rear hub puller
yorkshire_spam wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:57 pmI have one of those type too... I tighten it with a socket on the air gun... because it's all fun until I lose an eye.James467 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:55 pm I have one of these....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPIT ... Swu2tccwb1
I have heavily modified mine to work with Sprint hubs as well, works perfectly!
Tighten it up, hit it with a big hammer..... PING!
You'll need a press to get the bearings off the shafts.
.-) <--- one eyed smiley.



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- GrahamFountain
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Re: rear hub puller
I got this tool off eBay for the Herald, which is supposed to be a copy of the churchill tool for that car, made by a local firm for the guy I got it from. I think that's a functional copy rather than identical copy.
If the tool he had copied was the VL CHURCHILL/BMC FACTORY SERVICE TOOL S356C, it's also supposed to be for the Dolomite Sprint as well. So I'm hopeful it'll fit, though I haven't got around to offering it up yet. The last time a stud got broken (think it was the welder that did the inner wheel arches), the half-shaft had to come out and it were a real palaver.
The hole underneath is 2.5" diameter to the step, which is about 0.24" in, and 2.4" diameter to about 1.3".
Graham
If the tool he had copied was the VL CHURCHILL/BMC FACTORY SERVICE TOOL S356C, it's also supposed to be for the Dolomite Sprint as well. So I'm hopeful it'll fit, though I haven't got around to offering it up yet. The last time a stud got broken (think it was the welder that did the inner wheel arches), the half-shaft had to come out and it were a real palaver.
The hole underneath is 2.5" diameter to the step, which is about 0.24" in, and 2.4" diameter to about 1.3".
Graham
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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
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Re: rear hub puller
I believe that my hub puller was purchased from Canley Classics but that was a long time ago so I will attach a photo of it. I purchased it after attempting to get hubs 1500cc hubs off at the local garage using their press without success.

What I have found is if the hub does not come off with the first attempt slacken it off and retighten the stud nuts that are holding it, the puller, onto the hub as the first attempt may have pulled one or more of the studs a bit further into the hub which then results in the pull not being square.

What I have found is if the hub does not come off with the first attempt slacken it off and retighten the stud nuts that are holding it, the puller, onto the hub as the first attempt may have pulled one or more of the studs a bit further into the hub which then results in the pull not being square.
- GrahamFountain
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Re: rear hub puller
I see there's a proper churchill one on auction on eBay with 6 days to run.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153976007644
£75 with 2 bids. Plus £12 p&p.
Graham
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153976007644
£75 with 2 bids. Plus £12 p&p.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Re: rear hub puller
Thanks for the feedback folks. I think I will take the plunge and get the puller. Watch this space for progress.
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Re: rear hub puller
I CHEAT!
On the 1300/1500/1850, you don't need to pull the hub off to get the halfshaft out.
So remove the shaft and get it in a good vise, then shatter or grind away the outer race, cut the inner race with an angle grinder and it will slide off easily. Then knock the new bearing on with a lump of scaffold pole over the shaft from the inside end.
Steve
On the 1300/1500/1850, you don't need to pull the hub off to get the halfshaft out.
So remove the shaft and get it in a good vise, then shatter or grind away the outer race, cut the inner race with an angle grinder and it will slide off easily. Then knock the new bearing on with a lump of scaffold pole over the shaft from the inside end.
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Re: rear hub puller
I tried that with a spare shaft Steve, but I am terrified of damaging the shaft with the grinder. I ground through the inner race as much as I dared, but no joy with the chisel. I can put the puller up on the Forum if any Irish owners need to borrow it. (still have to get it yet)
- GrahamFountain
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Re: rear hub puller
The question I have about the Canley hub pulling tool vs the Churchill one, is how you stop the tool and hub turning as you turn the screw? Is the handbrake good enough?
The copy I have, like the Churchill one, has flats for a v. large open ender, plus mine has a web with a hole in a bar should fit through and bare on the ground.
Graham
The copy I have, like the Churchill one, has flats for a v. large open ender, plus mine has a web with a hole in a bar should fit through and bare on the ground.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
- yorkshire_spam
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Re: rear hub puller
'kin enormous stilsons around the puller, or if you are a mental case and tighten the forcing bolt up with an air gun (what sort of idiot would do that?) , very very thick gloves and hold onto it! (Don't try this at home!)GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:46 pm The question I have about the Canley hub pulling tool vs the Churchill one, is how you stop the tool and hub turning as you turn the screw? Is the handbrake good enough?
The copy I have, like the Churchill one, has flats for a v. large open ender, plus mine has a web with a hole in a bar should fit through and bare on the ground.
Graham

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