A search for these drop links came up with this. Considering it's just over a tenner inc drat, for the pair, one wonders if it might actually fit?
Graham
I've broken another front anti roll bar mounting. Any idea why?
- GrahamFountain
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Re: I've broken another front anti roll bar mounting. Any idea why?
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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Okay
They should be nyloc nuts.GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 8:56 am There're just spring washers under the nuts, nothing under the bolt heads. That's as I found them. I tighten the nuts with a spanner from the back, as I can only get a 1/4" drive on the bolt heads.
Ian
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- GrahamFountain
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Re: Okay
Am I correct in remembering them as 3/8 UNF, 9/16AF?sprint95m wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 3:16 pmThey should be nyloc nuts.GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 8:56 am There're just spring washers under the nuts, nothing under the bolt heads. That's as I found them. I tighten the nuts with a spanner from the back, as I can only get a 1/4" drive on the bolt heads.
Ian
Should they have washers under the bolt heads as well?
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Aye.....
The set screws are HU907, which translates as set screw with hexagon head 3/8"UNF x 7/8" long
(and the nylocs are part number YN2909).
They set screws should go in from the front according to the diagram in the parts book.
No washers are employed.
Ian.
(and the nylocs are part number YN2909).
They set screws should go in from the front according to the diagram in the parts book.
No washers are employed.
Ian.
TDC Forum moderator
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.
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Re: I've broken another front anti roll bar mounting. Any idea why?
Cheapskate that I am, i'm still using second hand original droplinks on my cars! I'm pretty sure CW does a poly version, but they ain't cheap! ISTR someone else (or maybe it was early CW development ones) having a very short life expectancy with the threaded shaft snapping in short order. I also think I remember Jeroen offering or maybe experimenting with originals rebushed with poly of his own spec. Or I might have dreamed the whole thing!GrahamFountain wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 12:59 pm A search for these drop links came up with this. Considering it's just over a tenner inc drat, for the pair, one wonders if it might actually fit?
Graham
In the absence of anything proven better, i've stuck to the Triumph product, but, of course, new or NOS are NLA!
That one you've pictured above looks like it might stand a chance, but a picture against a white background gives no idea of scale! Do you know what it's SUPPOSED to fit?
I've not really rejected ANY used ones yet as too far gone. Even with the rubber a bit cracked, they seem to work and not knock.
As I said, I remove them from the bar, clean and polish the bar end and replace them with a bit of grease on the bush and it seems to help, If I jack up the bottom ball joint with the car on stands (wheels off) I can SEE the bush move along the bar a bit as the arc shortens. TBH, I HATE removing the ARB, it's such a faff! But on both my cars I started with it off already, so why not?
Finally, I just noticed on a customer car I have in, it looks as if he has a pair of new repro links fitted, must ask him where they came from and how much!
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Okay........
Yes you're right Steve,
Chris Witor does sell new drop links with Superflex bushes for £30 each
https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=153735P
The ones that failed were supplied by Jigsaw racing (who are no longer in business),
the failure was of the welds joining the bolt to the eye rather than the bolt itself.
For my own car, I have made new drop links using Superflex bushes (which I think cost something like £4 each).
I had to do this because I am using ST tie bars and the Dolomite links aren't long enough to fit.
Ian.
TDC Forum moderator
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.
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