Steering Shaft/Knuckle - Lower - FAM1718

[sprint95m]

On the subject of the pressed joint, these were originally sold as a replacement (or a rally upgrade) for Ford Escort RWD models. But it's well known (to me at least) that the MKI Escort was largely imperial in it's dimensions and the MKII was almost entirely metric. Is this a case of the difference between 1/2" and 13mm? The Witor joint is all Triumph and most decidedly imperial, so less room for doubt.

Steve

Not meaning to be pedantic
The upgrade for the Escort rally cars was to use a T2000 forged UJ, the pressed joint was introduced later
purportedly as a confined space alternative.
The Escorts (1&2) use the same spline size as Triumph.


Ian

[GinettaG15]

i was just going through a refurb of my steering column using a U-Joint instead the flexible coupling.

unfortunately i did not come around shortening the intermediate shaft...i had to cut-off about 10mm and its still a snug-fit on the bulkhead side.

this said, my car is a LHD and not a pleasure for spannering, as space is really tight around the exhaust-downpipe.

[Richard the old one]

I did write an article about the lower steering coupling which was included in Dolly Mixture, the clubs magazine edition 203 June / July 2021 and in it I suggest that bolts for wire locking could be produced easily by someone with a lathe from say a 2 inch long 5/16th BSF bolts.

Can I suggest that club members dig out the article and have a read as in it I cover some aspects that have not been covered in this series of remarks.

[Carledo]

i was just going through a refurb of my steering column using a U-Joint instead the flexible coupling.

unfortunately i did not come around shortening the intermediate shaft...i had to cut-off about 10mm and its still a snug-fit on the bulkhead side.

this said, my car is a LHD and not a pleasure for spannering, as space is really tight around the exhaust-downpipe.

10mm is about average to trim off, maybe a touch on the high side, but not desprately so.

The point is, this trim off is wasted if you don't also mill the bolt flat down further up the shaft too, the bolt will stop the UJ running far enough up the intermediate shaft.

There is no real reason why it won't work just as well on LHD, just, as you say, access is a bit more limited.

Steve

[GinettaG15]

to move the u-joint further upwards, after cutting the intemediate shaft, i just had to prolonge the flat-machined area about 2-3mm....really not more.

a pitty is that i ordered the u-joint as pressed steel version at the "br*thers" . the u-joint came with 2 special bolts to clamp it on the shaft: the bolts are orignally M10 ones (speaking from the allen key) but machined-down to 8mm...with a M8 thread on the end.

so far so good. the splines were a snug fit, but after tigtening the bolts the u-joint was not moving so freely in one direction.
it looks like the pressed-steel case of u-joint slightly deformed with an impact on the u-joint itselves....as the lower u-joint in relation to the intermidiate shaft is quite straight, i hope it doenst have too much influence in self-centering of the steering....this said, if you can immediately tell me that this is rubbish, i might contact the supplier.

[Carledo]

to move the u-joint further upwards, after cutting the intemediate shaft, i just had to prolonge the flat-machined area about 2-3mm....really not more.

a pity is that i ordered the u-joint as pressed steel version at the "br*thers" . the u-joint came with 2 special bolts to clamp it on the shaft: the bolts are orignally M10 ones (speaking from the allen key) but machined-down to 8mm...with a M8 thread on the end.

so far so good. the splines were a snug fit, but after tigtening the bolts the u-joint was not moving so freely in one direction.
it looks like the pressed-steel case of u-joint slightly deformed with an impact on the u-joint itselves....as the lower u-joint in relation to the intermidiate shaft is quite straight, i hope it doenst have too much influence in self-centering of the steering....this said, if you can immediately tell me that this is rubbish, i might contact the supplier.

OK so you HAVE extended the bolt flat, I take it all the way to the upper end of the spline out of habit these days but whatever. I just hate taking the blanketty blank thing on and off to get it dead right and no more.

You are, I think, getting a feeling for why I use the Witor forged lower UJ rather than anyone's pressed one. The pressed ones are also a few critical mm longer than the Witor one. If space is tight, as it is on some cars, it may be the difference between fitting and not quite fitting.

This length issue and the semi endemic "loose on splines" problem are the main reasons I don't use the pressed one. I don't have any experience of the pressed UJ actually deforming when tightened fully, or I haven't noticed if I have, but I can't say i'm surprised if you have. As you say, the amount of deflection between the intermediate shaft and rack is very small to zero, it may not show in service.

TBH, I really just don't trust them, on a safety critical part like this, used the way I tend to use my cars (go hard or go home!) you have to trust the parts you've used or you'll worry yourself to death (or a slow time, which is worse!)

Steve

[GinettaG15]

would this be the correct spline size?

https://www.carbuilder.com/us/steering- ... int-forged

[sprint95m]

would this be the correct spline size?

https://www.carbuilder.com/us/steering- ... int-forged

I believe that is correct one


Ian

[GinettaG15]

yesterday i fitted the forged u-joint from CBS....it fits perfect...the intermidiate shaft does not need to be shortened when using this type of joint.

now my steering is play-free.

but i couldnt test-drive the car as my starter-motor is dead, now. (solenoid gets powered but doesnt click)...so next thing to do: refurb of starter or new starter.....