If that doesn't work (it should really) try jacking only 1 rear wheel, the differential effect will let you turn the engine (in 4th gear) just by rocking the wheel that is in the air.
Steve
Unless you have a limited slip differential!
Yeah, but so few people actually HAVE one, it's barely worth mentioning. It's my considered opinion that they only made a limited number of LSDs to homologate it for competition use and actually had trouble selling the surplus ones to maintain the fiction that it was a factory part. I heard a tale that they were virtually giving them away in circa 74 just to keep the thing on the books. It was NEVER on the options list, you just had to KNOW and very few did!
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Probably worth checking the firing order from the cap, that Bosch cap type doesn't necessarily relate to the Lucas one in terms of which lead goes where!
You were so right Steve
I had plug lead 2 & 3 from the distributor swapped over!!!, she's now running quite nicely a bit tappy I must say but that's nothing to do with the dizzy change
While I had the rocker cover off I did a check just on No 1 cylinder as it seems to be coming from that end, the results seem to be a bit random
Doing these seem a bit of a nightmare from what I have read on the forum, so I might be looking for someone to do this for me while I look over their shoulder for next time
GinettaG15 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 11:56 am
the 123 is imo an expensive alternative for the so not talented mechanic.
its still a dizzy (for people who prefer the classic look and who demand modern electronic, this might be the "only" reason to invest):
why i say this:
its still a rotating dizzy with a cap, a finger , a sparc which has to jump from the finger to the cap.
a dizzy-less solution like Megajolt or Nodiz is the "modern" way to go:
full electronic, no rotating parts, no wear parts but you need some knowledge in fabricating and spannering (installing a trigger wheel to the crank pulley for example)
so if you have the money, if you prefer an easy installation and if you are not so talented in fabricating: go for the 123
if you a good inspannering: got for the Megajolt or Nodiz.
if you are on a tight budget: go for a simple hall-effect module.
this said: both full electronic solutions (Mega and Nodiz) can be extended by a TPS, where you than have a full 3D mapping available.
3d Ignition with the correct mapping will really change such an oldschool engine.
Ask the Ford Escort or the Kitcar-Guys....most will tell you "installing the 3D ignition transfered the engine in a way that i thought i gained 10-15BHP"
Just as a heads up i put a 123 in a Ford Pinto in my RS2000 this year. I worked with a couple of racing groups who use 123s in their race engines. Most did not know there was a 123 to fit a Pinto but there was. All I can say is changed the RS performance as it did my Sprint.
